Category: Highlands

#71.3 The North-eastern Highlands

Lost in Brechin: Glencadam distillery

 

TL; DR: Another weekend, another trip to the northeast, destination: Brechin, home to Glencadam distillery! They just opened a new visitor centre after a substantial upgrade, and it is very cozy and charming: well done! We enjoyed the basic but informative tour, and a warm and hearty soup afterwards. 

(missed Part 2/Part 1?)

The weekend after our trip to Royal Brackla it was time again to hit the road with Mr Vantastic. And again, our destination was the northeast of Scotland. This time we had two distilleries to visit, so we stayed away for the night, hoping not to freeze. We left Leith mid-morning, the weather was not as good as during our trip to Royal Brackla, but not as wet as the one to Glenglassaugh: overcast and some rain here and there. We didn’t stop for lunch, as we’d prepared two sandwiches with the delicious rock salt and rosemary focaccia from Lidl: when it’s fresh, truly good stuff! Our first stop was Glencadam distillery, in Brechin. We arrived in town at around 1.30pm, but we parked away from the distillery, in what was marked as a potential stopover for the night. It is near the river South Esk but it didn’t look that great, so we postponed the decision to after the tour. It took us about 20 minutes to cross the town, walk alongside a football ground and a cemetery, to then arrive at the distillery.

Glencadam has been on our radar for a while, as their single malts became very popular among whisky enthusiasts: other than delicious, many of their expressions (except for a couple available in supermarkets) are naturally presented (non-chill filtered and natural colour), and mostly well priced: if you haven’t tried it yet, get a bottle of the 10-year-old, great stuff! After the pandemic the distillery has been mostly closed to public, with tours only available on Tuesdays and Thursdays, previous direct contact, but for a short period of time. When they closed again (to visitors, the distillery was still in production), it was for an important reason: works started to build a visitor centre, including a cafe and a dram bar. It was also to celebrate their 200th anniversary, so an opening was expected in 2025. Almost at the end, but they finally opened in November! As we arrived, we noticed the all new and tidy exterior, with an old still used as decoration and, given the period, a couple of cask-stave made Christmas trees.

  • Reward after a wee walk in the cold, Glencadam distillery.

In the visitor centre we were welcomed by Michael, the manager, an old acquaintance as he used to work at Kingsbarn distillery, and we met him many times at the Fife Whisky Festival. While waiting for the tour to start, we browsed the shop: other than the known expressions, everything was set up for a couple of bottle-your-own bottlings, but they were not available yet.

Our guide was Brian Townsend, local from Brechin, the whisky historian who wrote Scotch Missed, a book about lost distilleries (here a review by Kate Watt, of Watt Whisky independent bottler). It was us and another two couples on the tour, which started in a room with panels about the history of the distillery and a big map of Brechin on the floor. The distillery was founded in 1825 by George Cooper, who sold it only two years later. Between the mid-1800s and the early 1900s it changed hands a few times, until it was purchased by Hiram Walker in 1954, which in turn was acquired by Allied Domecq in 1987. The distillery was mothballed in 2000, but finally bought by Angus Dundee, the current owner, in 2003. The history and a high-level explanation of how whisky is made was covered (possibly too extensively) in an exhibition with a series of videos that preceded the actual tour of production.

  • We didn’t take pictures in the exhibition area, so you get us instead.

Going into the nerdy production details, they get 30 tons of fully unpeated barley three times a week mainly from Bairds, sometimes from Crisp: in both cases, they aim for Scottish barley. The mill, built in the 1920s, was acquired in 1965 and produces grist with the usual components split (husk/grit/flour 20/70/10). Five tons of grist are added to each mash, first with 20,000 litres of water at 65°C, then another 8,500 litre for the second water, and finally the third water (another 20,000 litres) captures the remaining sugars and is used as first water in the next mash. The draff is collected by local farmers once or twice a day, to feed cattle. Of the six washbacks, only two are made of stainless steel, but they will be replaced next year by Oregon pine ones, like the other four.

  • Oregon pine and stainless steel washbacks.

Another improvement was to get the water wheel to generate some of the electricity, replacing the original one dating back to 1824-25 that worked for over a century. The new one can be observed behind glass. Instead, a feature that is gone forever, is the original Doig ventilator, aka the pagoda, which was destroyed in a fire.

  • Can’t see much of the whater wheel behind the glass.

Back to production, we learned that fermentation lasts 48 hours, a short one, and is triggered by 13kg of distillers’ yeast. They only have one pair of stills, and in the second distillation, they start collecting the spirit after 10 minutes of foreshots (we didn’t get the cut points though). Coming out of the still room, we were in a small yard where the draff truck comes in, and from there we reached one of the six warehouses on site, to the right of the visitor centre. Two of these are dunnage style and date back to the 1800s, while three are from the 1950s and one is a modern racked warehouse.

  • A glimpse of the still room from the outside (no pitcures allowed inside).
  • Charming dunnage warehouse.

It was then time to go back to the visitor centre for the tasting: we had three drams in front of us, the Glencadam 10y (46%, fully ex-bourbon casks), its bigger brother 13y (46%, same casks), and the Reserva Andalucia, a non-age statement expression finished for a year in ex-sherry casks (46%). Recently, this became part of a series of many cask finishes expressions (white Port, tawny Port, Amarone, PX sherry, etc). It was a basic tasting, but enjoyable nonetheless…When we were about to finish, Micheal brought us another dram: a 17y “triple Port” cask, a nice and delicious touch!

  • A solid, wee lineup.

After the tasting, we went upstairs to the cafe for a warm soup, but Gianluigi got tempted by the dram bar (they have most Glencadam and Tomintoul expressions available) and got another dram (a delicious 15y finished in Madeira wine cask, 46%). It was a very pleasant moment, the cafe is a very cozy space to relax with bites and drams. Because in the meanwhile we’d decided to leave Brechin, we didn’t indulged in more drams at the bar (hopefully next time), and we left the premise, not before getting a signed copy of Brian’s book.

  • Christmasy atmosphere at the distillery.

We walked a bit around Brechin, but it was dark already and the visit to the cathedral was not that satisfying. We visited the site where the North Port (or Brechin) distillery used to be, now a CoOp (*sad trumpet*). We left town and arrived at the Cock and Bull pub, north of Aberdeen, a pub that lets campervans stay if a meal is consumed there. Despite arriving early (not even 6pm) they sent us away asking to come back at 8pm. We did, but we had to wait almost another hour to order as they admitted that they thought we wouldn’t come back (in spite of us leaving our names for a table). What a shite way to treat customers, probably we won’t be back.

  • What used to be North Port distillery.

Overall, our visit at Glencadam distillery was very good, we had a nice time. The new visitor centre looks great, and while the experience we chose was very basic, especially the tasting, it was interesting nonetheless (to note, they offer a pricier experience, maybe next time). We’d definitely suggest visiting the distillery to friends, in particular for those early into their whisky journey. The only thing we didn’t like was the pricing of the bottles in the shop: above retail, including some shops on the Royal Mile (obviously we’re not considering the big online retailers), but in general everything beyond the core range was slightly pricy, with no discounts available to those taking the tour. It always puzzles us how some producers seem to punish instead of rewarding the enthusiasts making the effort to travel to the distillery.

Stay tuned for the last tour around the northeast of Scotland, coming next week! Until then, slàinte!

The GlenCadam Distillery Tour

Price: £23.58 pp (£22.50 + fee, December 2025)

Duration: 1hr 30min

Tasting: 3 drams, Glencadam 10y (46%), Glencadam 13y (46%), Reserva Andalucia (NAS, 46%)

Target: everyone

Value for money: very good

Highlights: the cafe above the visitor centre

Recommended: yes

Link: https://www.glencadamwhisky.com/

#71.2 The North-eastern Highlands

Feeling like royals at Brackla

 

TL; DR: Another tour in the north east, this time at the mighty Royal Brackla. Tucked away near Inverness, it’s usually closed to the public, so when the chance to visit arrived, we couldn’t say no. It paid off, the tour was great, and it finished with a fantastic tasting! 

(missed Part 1?)

About a month after our trip to Glenglassaugh, we were on the road again, and again in the East Highlands! This time, however, our destination was much closer to the A9 and to Inverness: Royal Brackla Distillery. This distillery, owned by the Bacardi/Dewar’s group (together with Aberfeldy, Craigellachie, Macduff and Aultmore) is usually closed to the public: how come we visited it, then? Well, the answer is: charity! The company decided to run two open weekends, one at Royal Brackla, the other at Macduff distillery, and donate the revenues to local charities. And who are we to say “no” to visiting a distillery for charity? Once we learned about this on the Edinburgh Whisky Group chat, we snatched two tickets for each distillery right away.

The first of the two weekends was at Royal Brackla, which opened for two days (Saturday and Sunday), with three tours each day. We picked the last tour on the Saturday, at 2pm, thinking we might spend the night away (spoiler, at the end we didn’t). We left the city in the morning, aiming to get lunch near the distillery. After an uneventful drive on the A9, we went to the Hillhead Cafè in Tornagrain: Gianluigi had stopped there previously after fieldtrips to a nearby farm, so already knew it was a nice one. From there, we drove a few extra minutes, as the distillery is right after Cawdor, on the left, past the burgh where the popular Cawdor Castle is. Visiting the distillery (when they are open) and the castle could actually be a nice combo.

  • Here we are, ready for the tour.

It was a cold and sunny day, with some clouds, and being the end of November in the Highlands, at 2pm the sun was already starting to go down. When we arrived at the distillery, it was still caressing the landscape with a beautiful light – a fantastic atmosphere. We parked near a lovely old brick building, which hosts the distillery offices. The staff set up a room in a building just next door, with a big screen and a pop-up shop; as we checked in, they gave us a high visibility vest. We were accompanied on tour by Mike, Matthew, Luke and the distillery manager, who walked us to two recently renovated ponds, holding the water for cooling. At the end of the second one there is a wooden deck made from a former washback. From there, we could see a flock of mallards, permanent residents of the pond.

  • Such a beautiful day.

While on the deck, Mike talked about the history of the distillery: founded in 1812 as Brackla by Captain William Fraser, formerly in the military, but born locally. That’s quite early, compared to the many distilleries founded between 1823-24. Because of the resentment of the illicit distillers in the area, he struggled to sell his whisky locally, so he took advantage of the near Inverness port and of his connections in the army, to send it all over Great Britain, as far as London. The royal warrant, the first one in scotch whisky, was given by king Willian IV, apparently very fond of Brackla. The distillery was shut during both World Wars, and for five years during the Whisky Loch of the 1980s. When Diageo was formed in the late 1990s, they sold Dewar’s to Bacardi, including Royal Brackla and the other four aforementioned distilleries.

  • Porteus mill still going strong.

Back at the distillery, we started on the nerdy production details right away: the malt, fully unpeated, comes from Beards, mostly sourced in the Black Isle, and stored in one of the 14 malt bins. Currently it is a 50/50 blend of Laureate and Sassie, crushed into grist by an old Porteus mill, in the usual husk/grit/flour ratio of 20/70/10. They mill for 2-3 hours, twice a day, to run 11 mashes per 5-day week. They scaled production down from 7 days because of the current climate, but before they used to distil 4.4 million litres per annum. They also reduced personnel from 10 to 8 operators. Each mash uses 13-ton of grist, and the two waters (as usual, the third is used as first water in the next mash) result in about 58,000 litres of wort, which is then split into three washbacks. There are eight washbacks in total, two stainless steel ones outside the building and six wooden ones inside. Apparently the latter provide better yield.

  • A clumsy attempt to get mashtun and washbacks in the same picture.

Fermentation is kickstarted by Lallemand cream yeast and lasts 60 hours minimum, but it can be around 115 hours if it goes over the weekend (considering they are working five days). The still room was probably the best part, with the four stills (two wash and two spirit stills) aligned behind the window, from which we could see the ponds. Again, because of the light, the view from there was spectacular.

  • Magnificent view from the still room.

Back to technicalities, the stills’ steam is generated with either an LPG or a biomass boiler (they have one of each). About the latter, they commented that while it reduces their carbon footprint substantially, it is hard work to make it run. In the second distillation, after about 30 minutes of foreshots, they start collecting the spirit from 76%abv down to 64%, and it takes 5 hours to get about 5,000 litres of spirit. Everything is put into tankers and shipped to Glasgow for maturation, where it is filled into casks at a strength of 64% (a slight departure from the usual 63.5%). The fact that they don’t store any cask on site surprised us, as we’d seen a big warehouse on the road to get to the distillery. That is actually owned by ACEO Spirits (also owning Dallas Dhu distillery) – mystery solved.

  • The view inside is good too.

We then entered a building that used to be a filling station, with a big dominating the space. This is where we had the tasting. To note, their single malt range underwent a revamp in 2020, moving away from fully oloroso sherry matured whisky and all bottled at 40%, with everything now at 46% (or above) and natural (no chill-filtered, no added colouring).

  • A filling station turned into a tasting room.

We started with the current 12y (46%), a mix of ex-bourbon and finished in Oloroso casks, a very solid dram. Then, we tried the 18y (46%, finished in Palo Cortado), which was stunning, and then we tried the 21y (46%), from three types of sherry casks: Oloroso, Pedro Ximenex and Palo Cortado. With the final dram, we went up in abv: 54.1%, a 20y Exceptional Cask bottling, matured in refill sherry casks but finished (again) in Palo Cortado. All great drams, but the 18y won it for both!

  • Strong start of the tasting.
  • …and we couldn’t complain about the end either.

That was the end of our day, as we slowly drove back to Edinburgh. When we first learned about these tours, we were a bit worried about the price, especially considering some recent expensive distillery visits. The fact that it was £20 per person (in line with the other Dewar’s tours at Craigellachie and Aultmore during the Spirit of Speyside) shows how other producers are literally taking the piss! On top of a fantastic tour of a very pretty distillery, with a great team showing us around and answering our nerdy questions, they offered us a fantastic tasting with an array of delicious drams. We were already aware of how good Royal Brackla could be, but it now has a special place in our hearts (and livers).

Stay tuned for another distillery visit in the north east, this time much eastern, coming next week! Until then, slàinte!

Royal Brackla Distillery Tour

Price: £20.00 pp (November 2025)

Duration: 2hr

Tasting: Royal Brackla 12y (46%, Oloroso finish), 18y (46%, Palo Cortado finish), 21y (46%, Oloroso, Palo Cortado, PX finish), Exceptional Cask 20y (54.1%, refill Oloroso + 2y Palo Cortado finish)

Target: everyone

Value for money: great!

Highlights: the view from the still room, but the distillery in general

Recommended: absolutely, keep an eye on their socials

Link: https://www.royalbrackla.com/

#71.1 The North-eastern Highlands

Dramming on to the North Sea: Glenglassaugh

 

TL; DR: This year we finally made it to the Dornoch Whisky Festival, where we had a blast! On the road there we did a quite long detour to Glenglassaugh, in the Aberdeenshire, for a distillery tour. The distillery is very interesting and the tour was good, but it was one of the most overpriced experiences we had recently. 

A few months back, towards the end of 2025, we visited a few distilleries in the north-eastern Highlands: east to the A9 (the stub between Perth and Inverness), but not Speyside. In fact, almost like a horseshoe around Speyside. There used to be many more distilleries in this region back in the day – from Alfred Barnard’s book The Distilleries of The United Kingdom: Bennachie, Glenaden, Glenugie, Bon Accord, Devanha, Strathdee, Glenury Royal, Brechin/North Port, Banff and others. Some still stand, and while we already visited a few (Glen Garioch, Glendronach, Royal Lochnagar, Fettercairn & Arbikie), for a reason or another we kept missing some others.

The first of these trips happened in October, a month that for us used to mean Dramathon. While it’s a fun event, after 4 years (in which we ran 3 because the 2023 one was cancelled due to a flood red warning) we definitely needed a change, so we decided to attend the Dornoch Whisky Festival instead, an event we’d wanted to check out for a while. On the way up there, we took a (not so) short detour, to visit Glenglassaugh distillery. In the pandemic aftermath it was closed to the public, except for possibly some events during the Spirit of Speyside (even if technically it’s not considered a Speyside distillery). However, earlier in the year we discovered that tours became available.

The distillery is on the coast between Aberdeen and Inverness, not exactly behind the corner, going there on our way to the Dornoch Whisky Festival (even if it meant an hour of extra driving) saved an extra trip. We split the drive in two by leaving the city on the Thursday night: the perks of Mr Vantastic. We spent the night near Stonehaven, and in the morning, we drove along the coast: the weather was not great, so it wasn’t the smartest of the plans. After a coffee and a roll in Peterhead, we went straight to the distillery.

  • Finally got here…

Coming from Portsoy, Glenglassaugh is tucked between the A98 and the North Sea, just before Sandend Bay: an old windmill stands just past the entrance road, almost to signal it (well, if you know). We turned right into a small downhill road, next to a large warehouse complex, to reach the visitors’ car park. Next to it, a building marked as “visitor centre” but looking disused. We then realised that the actual visitor centre was the next building, an old and beautiful mansion.

  • …for another distillery tour in the rain.

Our guide, Marie, welcomed us inside and made us coffee, a nice touch. Unfortunately, the chimney was not on, but the large room was very cozy nonetheless. After a pleasant chat, Marie delved into the history of the distillery and how it is now part of the Brown Forman portfolio, together with Benriach and Glendronach (not the same link as before for the latter, because we visited it twice!) in Scotland, and also Jack Daniel’s, Woodford Reserve, and other brands. The distillery started production on the 4th of December 1875 by an entrepreneur called James Muir, who had connections with the engineering world and owned a wine shop in Portsoy. The name Glassaugh comes from the nearby burn, which starts about 8 miles uphill from a spring. After Muir death’s, the distillery fell in the hands of their nephews, but it was eventually sold to Highland Distillers in 1892, and later mothballed in 1907. It was reopened once again in 1959, with a substantial revamp, while some of the old original buildings used as warehouses. The aim was to use the malt as a component for the Famous Grouse: however, the spirit was too overpowering, and in between then and 1986, when it closed, a number of changes were made to try to “tame” it.

  • Not a bad spot to listen to the distillery history.

The distillery was reopened by another company in 2008, while in 2012 they launched the whisky Revival. It was then bought by Billy Walker in 2013 and sold, together with Benriach and Glendronach, to Brown Forman in 2017. Recently, production has slowed down, and at the time of our visit Glenglassaugh was running at about 50%, sharing the same production staff with Benriach.

After this detailed introduction, we went outside to check out the production. We started with the malt bins and the mill room, in a stone building alongside the road that goes downhill towards the Sandend beach. We were supposed to have a short walk to the beach, and have there our first dram, the Glenglassaugh Sandend. This is a higher abv (50.5%) non-age stated whisky, mostly from ex-bourbon casks, but with Manzanilla and Oloroso sherry as well: probably, the best dram of their core range. Unfortunately, it was still “pishing doon”, so we tasted the dram in the mill room instead, admiring the old Porteus mill crashing malted barley into grist (usual shares for husk/grit/flour, 20/70/10). Different to most distilleries, at Glenglassaugh, most of the “new” equipment was made by Porteus, implying that Ronnie Lee, the Welsh engineer who maintains Porteus machines, spends there about 2 weeks every time.

  • The mill room.
  • Dramming in the mill room.

After the dram, we went to the “new” (i.e. 1959) building, clearly a product of the (bad?) taste of that age. The mashtun is 20,000 litres, made of cast iron and with a copper lid, which resisted a robbery attempt during the last mothballing period (not the same luck for some of the copper pipes though). Between the first and second water, they collect 24,000 litres only. The third and last water amount to 17,000 litres, used as first water for the following batch.

  • Not the most impressive building…
  • A Porteus mashtun, nice!

Mashing lasts 7 hours, and they aim for a cloudy wort, which is then moved to one of the 6 washbacks (4 Douglas Fir, 2 stainless steel). There, fermentation lasts about 60 hours, before the wash is distilled twice: first 12,000 litres go through the wash still (so, each mashing and fermentation produce enough wash for two distillations), then 7,000 litres of low wines (at 25%abv) are distilled again in the spirit still. The wash still is externally heated by a steam jacket, while the spirit still has a steam coil inside. The stills were installed in 1974: one of the many attempts to “tame” the spirit. The spirit cut is between 75% and 63%, for an average of about 68.8%, which is filled into casks.

  • A different perspective, still from above.

After that, we visited a dunnage warehouse, one of the three on site, together with three palletised ones. They also own some warehouses a few miles down the road, at Macduff distillery (owned by Bacardi). They use a variety of casks, some going back to the late 1960s, including a new for us: a Missandra cask form a very old winery in Crimea.

  • Where Dr. Rachel Barrie selects casks.

Back at the visitor centre, four drams were waiting for us in a cosy tasting room. The first two drams are part of the latest Glenglassaugh revamp from 2023, together with the Sandend we tried before: a 12 year old (45%), from a selection of ex-bourbon, sherry and red wine casks; and a peated (30-45ppm) non-age stated single malt finished in port casks (49%), the Portsoy (named after the nearby village). Finally, we tried two expressions from a wood-finish range that came out in 2017, right after Brown Forman took over. Both started their life in 1st fill ex-bourbon casks, but one was finished for two years in a PX sherry cask (46%), while the other one, peated, was finished in an American oak virgin cask (46%). The latter one was the one Gianluigi liked the most, unusual as for him virgin oak finishes can be a hit-or-miss. Teresa liked the Portsoy as well, very leathery and decadent, while we both enjoyed the Sandend, crisp and lively.

  • Exploration of recent and less recent releases.

Said that, we were expecting more from this experience. Marie was a perfect host, very competent, knowledgeable, kind, and enthusiastic: she really was great and we learned a lot about the distillery. We don’t mind either having 1 or 2 drams from the core range (which we can find pretty much anywhere in whisky shops and some bars) to set the benchmark, nor 15ml drams, which we think it’s enough to taste. However, for £90, we expected something else from the rest of the tasting: possibly some drams from the cask, or some older expressions. Or at least, a reason that makes you want to go back and say: “well, it was pricey, but it was worth it”. Unfortunately, none of that was on the menu, probably because of corporate greediness or for a push to “premiumisation”. Well, at least there wasn’t one of those grossly overpriced bottle-your-own expressions like at other distilleries (Diageo anyone? CVH?), but we don’t know if this is a positive or a negative at this point. The distillery is in a great location, with an interesting story, and the whisky is tasty, such a shame to misuse its potential like this.

Because this post is long enough, we won’t delve into the fantastic Dornoch Whisky Festival, we’ll save it for another occasion. Stay tuned for our next distillery visit in the North East, coming next week! Until then, slàinte!

Glenglassaugh Distillery Tour

Price: £90.00 pp (October 2025, £95 at the time of writing)

Duration: 2hr 30min

Tasting: 5 Glenglassaugh single malts, the 12y (45%, chill-filtered); Sandend (50.5%, NAS, ex-bourbon casks); Portsoy (49.1%, finished in Port casks); small batch PX cask finish (NAS, 46%); small batch Peated virgin oak cask (NAS, 46%).

Target: whisky fans and distillery baggers like us

Value for money: not great

Highlights: the location

Recommended: only if you’re desperate to visit it, otherwise there are more sensibly priced options nearby

Link: https://www.glenglassaugh.com/

#69 Farewell to 2025

Another whisky year under our belt

 

TL; DR: What another great whisky year! It started quietly but it ended on a treble! Our highlights were the north of Scotland trip (especially Wolfburn, 8 Doors, and North Point), the Independent Spirit, Fife and Dornoch Whisky festivals, a Brora tasting, and the final long weekend in the Wee Toon!

Here we are, ready for our last blog post of the year for you to enjoy before the New Year’s bells. With our Christmas celebrations almost over, and some fantastic meals behind us, it’s time to reflect a bit on this year, while listening to a very soothing early 2000s acoustic live from Pearl Jam. We hope you are cozy as we are, and that you could spend the holidays with your loved ones, and possibly a few good drams!

This year started slow for us, we didn’t visit any distillery between our 2024 trip to Australia and April 2025: just over 4 months without setting foot in a distillery! That was because of a combination of work and family commitments, we couldn’t even do our usual late-winter trip (Borderlands in 2022, Ardnamurchan & Mull in 2023, Skye and Raasay in 2024). However, we had lot of material from last year to ramble about on the blog, like our trip to Yorkshire and the one to Australia, both excellent adventures where we had great tastes of non-Scotch malt whiskies. In March, though, we managed to attend the Fife Whisky Festival in Cupar and the Independent Spirits Festival in Leith: these are two excellent festivals that should be on the radar of all whisky enthusiasts! A bit different from each other, the latter smaller and focused on independent bottlers, obviously, but very fun as well. Our plan is to attend them both again in 2026, we already secured tickets.

  • Volunteering at the Fife Whisky Festival.

In early April Roberto, one of Gianluigi’s best pals, came for a long weekend. The two went on a bromance trip in Campbeltown, followed by a hike on Arran. For Gianluigi, revisiting Springbank since 2021 was really a great and refreshing experience, with Findlay as a fantastic tour guide!

  • Dramming around with an old friend.

The first visit the two of us did together was not in a distillery, but in a winery: during one of our many trips to Italy we visited the Montalcino area, so we could indulge in visit to a historic winery: Fattoria dei Barbi. We thought the wine was excellent, even if an important disclaimer is that we know next to squat about wine.

  • Not our usual ‘landscape’. Still delicious.

It then came the time for the Spirit of Speyside, the week-long festival celebrating the many distilleries and producers of the region. As usual, we hit all the distilleries we hadn’t visited yet (Teresa also hit something else, but you’ll have to ask her, ahah), most of them closed to public (Inchgower, Glendullan, the first opening of the Cabrach). We also did two great tastings events, the Casks of Glen Moray and the Murray McDavid Drams under the stars. Overall, we always enjoy these events, and their variety. Our only complaint is the price for some distillery tours compared to the number/size of drams served. While the £100 tours at Diageo’s distilleries are bad enough, we just refused to pay £200 to visit two Chivas Brothers distilleries, one of which you can visit for around £25 in normal times. Thumbs down.

  • Drams under the stars…A pity it was so cold!

During the summer our highlight was a short trip to the northern Highlands we did with Edoardo, Gianluigi’s brother. We visited Pulteney, Wolfburn, 8 Doors and North Point: except the first one (which was fine but not outstanding), the other three visits were just incredible! Wolfburn drams were above our expectations, and we are looking forward to the single malts from the other two! Also, the landscape in this part of Scotland is just phenomenal!

  • A beautiful spot in the north of Scotland.
  • Spirit is maturing in a bunker at North Point distillery.

In July we also visited the Glasgow distillery for the first time, which just turned 10 and is one of the most exciting new producers in the game!

September was a bit of a disappointment, as we couldn’t make it to the Outer Hebrides for the Hebridean Whisky Festival. That was nobody’s fault, but with 3-4 consecutive days of high winds, it was just impossible for us to travel there. Despite the poor weather we still managed to sail to Tiree, home to a veeeeery tiny distillery.

  • Interesting equipment at Tiree distillery.

We made up for the missing trip by visiting another new small distillery in the Tain area, Toulvaddie, and by revisiting some old acquaintances, Glenturret and Glenkinchie, which both went through a remake since we’d visited the first time. The Glenkinchie tour was particularly great, also thanks to our pal and whisky geek John who works there as a tour guide!

  • When the guide is a whisky friend, priceless.

The last part of the year was very busy. First, we finally got inside our local distillery: Bonnington, a real workhorse in the heart of Leith! Then, we spent some time in the eastern Highlands: the team at Bacardi/Dewar’s decided to open two of their distilleries for charity, Royal Brackla and Macduff (and who are we to say “no” to visit a distillery for charity?), and we also managed to get into the recently reopened Glenglassaugh and Glencadam (dedicated posts to come next year).

  • Bonnington, neighbour distillery.

This year we ditched the Dramathon to attend the Dornoch Whisky Festival instead (they usually happen in two following weekends, too close to each other to attend both). This was a lot of fun, we’re definitely adding it to our (short) list of whisky festivals that we enjoy. An event was a memorable dinner where each course was paired with an Ardnamurchan dram, with Carl from the sales team introducing them. The lineup included their soon-to-be-released (now it is) 10-year-old, different from the previous version but more true to the distillery character.

  • Such a good dinner, such great drams.

Tasting-wise, the main highlight was a pricey but fantastic tasting at the Belfry: Brora and Clynelish, hosted by the great Jolly Toper Mark and Patrick Brossard, who wrote a book about Brora. It was our first time trying the old distillery malt, so it was very special as you can imagine.

  • A unique tasting experience for sure.

Another great event was the Aquavitae Blind Challenge in Glasgow, which we finally attended again after missing it in 2023 (flu) and 2024 (away): organised by Roy, it was a great opportunity to meet and chat with fellow barflies. The following week we attended the Kilchoman celebration for their 20years, at the Edinburgh Academy. We thought it would have been a tasting but was more akin to a small Kilchoman-only festival, with present and past bottlings to try – a nice surprise. Also, the Edinburgh Whisky Group was very well represented: a cracking time!

  • This year we didn’t do bad 🙂

Our whisky year finished off with a long weekend in Campbeltown: we didn’t tour any of the distilleries, but we had a few very interesting tastings (and again, next year there will be more about that).

  • Things you see in Campbeltown.

Obviously, we can’t ignore the elephant in the room: the state of the whisky industry, with respect to both production and hospitality. The great uncertainties around the economy on both sides of the Atlantic ocean make it hard to predict how the industry will be in 5, 10 or 15 years. We’re already seeing a big impact in the short term, with many distilleries pausing or reducing production. For example, as we are writing, we heard about Jim Beam pausing production at their Kentucky distillery (Mitch McConnell will be happy about that), which felt weird because it was our first full distillery tour back in 2016. On the other hand, some of the production expansion plans, in particular announced by some big players, now seem to be ludicrous and anachronistic: while we love whisky, it is still a “drug”, and you can only push it to some extent. We are also left wondering about the destiny of most of the new distilleries – often relatively small projects, we hope they’ll manage.

We heard the term “adjustment”, which makes a lot of sense at this stage. We hope one of the positive implications is that the dodgy investment schemes will gradually leave the market, avoiding the overinflation of casks and bottles prices. This “adjustment” might also make some producers rethink their plan to destroy historical distilleries to make space for theme parks (yes, we are talking about a distillery on Skye), and maybe rethink their tour prices. And finally, prices cooling down a bit (we already saw this being the case, especially with independent bottlers) might make them more realistic, allowing us to stash a few cracking malts for the year to come!

We hope you have some gems stashed as well, and that you’re sharing them with your loved ones to celebrate great moments in the year to come! Have a great 2026 and, as always, slàinte mhòr!

  • Slàinte!

#66.2 Something new, something old

Back to Glenturret, after the Lalique revamp

 

TL; DR: On our anticipated travel back to Edinburgh, we decided to revisit a distillery we’d only been once in the middle of the pandemic: Glenturret! In the meanwhile, the distillery went through a revamp, with a new core range and a new mashtun. A solid tour ending with two tasty drams!

(missed Part 1?)

The sky in Inverness was uniformly grey that morning, with hints of rain and puffs of cold air. We took the A9 southward, not stopping until Dalwhinnie: nope, not at the distillery, but at The Apiary, a nice cafe serving the most delicious honey cake ever! So good that we endured the rather expensive coffee. Back on the road, we decided for a last-minute stop at a distillery we’d visited over 5 years ago: Glenturret.

Back in August 2020, it was one of the few distilleries open in that weird summer between lockdowns. Gianluigi’s parents took advantage to come visit as well, and we took them to the magnificent Isle of Skye: the village of Crieff was a perfect stop along the way. The tour with masks and social distancing was really something else, but also having to translate everything for Gianluigi’s parents meant we couldn’t grasp all the details (and the tour guide, while she kindly agreed for us to translate, didn’t make much effort to space her sentences a bit). However, Gianluigi’s mother still remembers Towser the cat, the distillery’s mice-catching machine, long gone but remembered with a statue.

  • A cat with a glorious past.

A few weeks after our 2020 visit, a new revamped core range was announced by the new owners, Lalique (decanters, perfumes, etc). During the Edrington period, Glenturret was used as the home of The Famous Grouse, before it was sold to Lalique in 2019. Funnily enough, Edrington now has sold the entire Famous Grouse brand as well! When we first visited the core range was a bit outdated, with all expressions at 43% and without age statements. The new one is released about once a year, in a newly designed decanter-style bottle, and it is curated by their whisky maker Bob Delgarno, who worked many years at the Macallan. This year’s expressions are the Triple Wood (45%abv, £62, the only chill-filtered expression), a 7y peated (46%, £62) a 10y peated (46.6%, £67), a 12y sherried (46.2%, £77), a 14y also peated (48%, £150) and finally a 15y (46%, £165). The 12y had some success in our whisky bubble, despite its price betrays a move towards the luxury market, even more clear when checking the price of expressions beyond the 12y age statement (including the extra aged stuff, not mentioned here). Other than revamping the core range, Lalique also transformed the distillery: no more a stand-alone cafe, with hot beverages and snacks now available at the whisky bar.

  • There used to be a cafe here.

There is also a fine dining restaurant with two Michelin stars, and a Lalique boutique behind the visitor’s centre shop. However, production remained very much traditional, as shown to us by our guide Alan: he looked somehow familiar, but we couldn’t really place him exactly. After the introduction (held in what used to be the malting floor), he explained the recent history of the distillery and how it is the oldest in Scotland as it dates back to 1763. Apparently, this came to a surprise as the previous understood founding date was 1775: in any case, things must have changed quite a bit. What didn’t change is the presence of cats: during the tour we spotted a couple of them, apparently not trying very hard to fill Towser’s shoes.

  • Doesn’t look as active as Towser.

The distillery now works 7 days a week, doing 12 mashes (not reaching the total capacity of 500,000 litres of alcohol per year), using mostly unpeated barley. To note, a few months back they announced that they will stop using peated barley (usually about 9-14ppm) from next year. Although we can totally see the reasons (sustainability, mostly), it’s a bit of a shame as we love the peated Glenturret, particularly at a young age (in the recent past the Scotch Malt Whisky Society released a good number of those casks!). In line with their sustainability ethos, they are also trying to source the barley locally, for the moment it’s around 30%. The process starts with crushing the barley in their old Porteus mill, but compared to other distilleries their grist has a lower percentage of flour (7% vs the usual 10%), compensated by more grit (73%). Mashing is one of the novelties as they replaced the open mashtun we saw in 2020 with a shiny new 1.9ton one with a copper lid, and a semilauter system inside. Mashing is carried out with three waters at increasing temperature from 64°C to 85°, and the remaining draff goes to local farmers.

  • This mashtun wasn’t there back in 2020.

Fermentation happens in one of the eight wooden washbacks, using 37 kg of M yeast per batch, and lasts 100-120 hours. As for the distillation, in the second run the cut they take goes from 69%abv to 63%, with the foreshots and the feints redistilled with the next batch of low wines from the first distillation. Each batch produces about 850 litres of spirit, enough to fill 3 to 4 casks (American standard barrel) at a strength of 64%. Another novelty is that they installed a heat-exchanger that works between the mash and the still: the first still is now filled with pre-heated wash at 70°C and not 17°C as in the past: good for the environment and the wallet.

  • A bigger still than we remembered.

We didn’t visit the filling store, nor the warehouse, but after the tour we went back to the visitor centre. Alan took us to a room on the upper floor, next to the restaurant, for the tasting, including the 10y and the 12y. A pleasant surprise, as we thought they’d give us drams of the two cheapest expressions like other distilleries did in the recent past…Very good on them! We briefly stopped at the bar, for coffee and to buy a dram to take home: we chose the 14y, a very tasty example of soft and sweet peat smoke, with some decadent notes from the sherry cask (although, not “150-quid-a-bottle” tasty).

  • Two good drams for the driver…
  • …and a dram (not the bottle!) to take home.

Overall, we were very happy with this visit, the tour was entertaining and interesting, despite being more tailored for people new to whisky: still, probably one of the best “basic tours” we attended recently. In our opinion, Lalique and the team did a great job to give the whisky and the brand the character it deserved, because Glenturret can be delicious. Moreover, the makeover they gave to the distillery was more discrete and tasteful than we anticipated. Just a shame that some of the expressions are priced out of range for most whisky enthusiasts: hey ho.

  • We might see you again, Glenturret.

We left Glenturret, ready to get home 4 days in advance compared to the initial plans: not great. To cheer us up we did one last stop on the way: we found a table at the Lobster Pot, a nice restaurant next door to the Blackness Bay distillery. It was since the distillery visit last year that we wanted to go back, and finally there we were, enjoying some delicious seafood!

One more distillery visit to go before the end of our “back-up” plan. Until then, slàinte!

Glenturret Distillery Tour

Price: £20.00 pp (September 2025)

Duration: 1hr

Tasting: two drams, Glenturret 12y (46.2%) and 10y peated (46.6%)

Target: anyone

Value for money: good

Highlights: the traditional production process

Recommended: yes, it’s a good basic tour

Link: https://theglenturret.com/

#66.1 Something new, something old

Toulvaddie distillery: A whisky mystery solved with…pizza!

 

TL; DR: After our trip to the Outer Hebrides was cancelled, we tried our luck driving East, to the Fearn Peninsula. There, we visited another new craft distillery: Toulvaddie. Not our usual tour, but a must-do for the pizza and cocktails lovers! 

If you read our last post, you’ll know our holidays to the Outer Hebrides went down the pooper: we barely managed to visit Tiree distillery, on the Isle of Tiree, but then our next ferries were cancelled because of high wind. Oh well, when we’d booked the trip, we knew this could happen, we’ll just need to wait a few months to regroup and try again. However, in the meanwhile we had to decide what to do with our remaining days off, at least during the weekend.

That Friday we woke up at the campsite in Fort William under a gloomy grey sky: a cold, wet and windy day, not putting us in the best mood for outdoor activities. After breakfast, a shower, and a chat with Justine, Karen and Chris, we decided to split. The two of us and Mr. Vantastic left Fort William eastward, hoping the other coast would bring some luck. While Teresa drove, Gianluigi looked at potential whisky activities to do in the area. There was a new distillery that had been on our radar for a while, but we had not managed to visit: Toulvaddie. One reason for not getting there earlier was that tours are available only on Tuesdays and Wednesdays (until a few weeks ago, also on Thursdays). Truth to be told, a few weeks prior we’d tried to plan a visit on our way back from holidays, on a Tuesday. However, the booking system didn’t work, and our queries weren’t replied. After a check on their website, we found out that they do pizza nights on Fridays and Saturdays, so we figured they must have been open (two Sherlocks in action here!). Thus, we decided to drive there and try our luck. Worst case scenario, we’d still get a pizza!

  • It took a while, but we found our way to the distillery.

The distillery is located on the Tarbat peninsula (near Fearn, Easter Ross), to the east side of the A9, roughly between Invergordon and Tain. It is on the site of a former naval airbase (HMS Owl) and while part of the surrounding area has been redeveloped for industrial use mostly, there is still an airfield for small private planes. As a matter of fact, Google Maps sent us straight in the middle of the runaway; the area is quite flat though, and not massively built, so we quickly found our way around the airfield to get to the distillery.

  • Memory of an old airfield.

We arrived there at 2pm, the opening time, while pizza would have been available from 3pm until 8pm (unless sold out). We left the van next to the gate, and we walked in to find a very nice space: on the left, some vegetation and a container (we’ll learn later that’s the temporary warehouse, while waiting to build the permanent one), on the right side a nice garden with a fish pond, chairs and a grill: perfect for summer time! In the meantime, the sun came out (for a while), and it gave a great feel to the whole outdoor area.

  • Such a nice space.

The production is inside the main building, together with the bar in a big open space. As we walked in, we were welcomed by Heather, the distillery owner together with her husband Bobby (who was busy setting up the pizza oven). The production equipment is past the bar area, with the shiny stills almost in the middle of the building. We sat at the bar, and while splitting a tasty Happy Chappy pale ale (from Cromarty Brewing), we started chatting with Heather about their whisky production. Although the distillery was planned way before, they actually started distilling in April 2024, so their spirit is half-way to become a single malt.

  • A nice space inside too.

The distillery is operational from Sunday to Thursday, and production is quite scheduled. They don’t have a mill, but they bring in pre-milled Laureate malted barley from Crisp. Other than saving one stage of production, this allows them to reduce the spark risk, so they can have people inside the building. They usually mash on a Wednesday, in a 0.33 ton mashtun, and then ferment the wort for 5 days in one of the 2,000-litre washbacks. Distillation is usually done on the following Monday (first) and Tuesday (second), in a couple of Hoga stills: the spirit one (the second) is only 500 litres, one of the few that is smaller than the Dornoch distillery’s one! Both stills work with a steam coil, powered by an oil unit, and they are both equipped with a shell and tube condenser. The second distillation cuts are approximately between 70% and 60%. All the casks are filled on site, mostly ex-bourbon barrels, but sherry ones too from time to time. The draff and the pot ale are sold to local farmers. We shared a dram of the newmake spirit (bottled at 63.5%), which was very malty and cereal-y, with the usual green fruits (apple and pear) taking a back sit in this one: nice stuff!

  • Very small Hoga stills.

At that point it was about time to order the pizzas, pepperoni and mushroom+ham, which we happily enjoyed, for Gianluigi while tasting one of their newmake spirit-based cocktails. The idea of using the distillery as a pub and pizzeria to get some cash is a very smart one in our opinion, also because there aren’t many other options in the area. They have plans to build a new permanent pizza oven outside the distillery, so they won’t have to set it up every Friday. Before leaving we signed the guest book, hoping to go back when their single malt will be ready!

  • Happy after pizza and another distillery under our belt.

We took Mr. Vantastic back on the A9, and decided to stay in Inverness for the night. After we found a suitable parking, we visited the Uile Bheist “brewstillery”’s pub, as last time we were there, we hadn’t had time to enjoy it after the production tour. We had a couple of drams there and, completely unplanned, we were rejoined by Karen and Chris: the choice is great and prices are very competitive. To end the night, we decided to pay one final visit at a whisky bar we’d heard a lot about but never been before: the Malt Room! The whisky choice is great there too, but probably because it was a tad too busy, and the general rowdiness of the night (Inverness is rowdy on a Friday night!!), it didn’t feel very cosy. Hopefully next time we’ll visit on a quieter day.

  • Last dram at the Malt Room.

The next morning we woke up and, with no rush, drove south towards Leith. Did we drive straight home? Almost. More on this next week. Until then, slàinte!

Toulvaddie Distillery Tour

Price: £15.00 pp (September 2025)

Duration: 1hr

Tasting: a dram of newmake spirit (63.5%)

Target: anyone

Value for money: N/A*
*we didn’t do the tour as advertised on the website so we don’t know. We went in for the pizza on a Friday

Highlights: the garden and the pizza!

Recommended: nice for a pizza/distillery combo

Link: https://www.toulvaddiedistillery.com/home

#63.4 As north as you can get (on the mainland)

Pointing north to the bunker

 

TL; DR: Our final distillery visit in this North Highland trip was to another new distillery: North Point! The location is very fascinating, and during the engaging tour, Alex walked us through their process in a distinctive visit that left us excited. After the visit, we visited peat bogs, beaches, and waterfalls, an ended the trip with a cheeky visit at Tomatin. 

(missed Part 3/Part 2/Part 1?)

The Forss Technology Business and Energy Park is only a few minutes driving from Thurso, the access road is on the right side of the A836, if you’re driving westward. As we approached it, the site looked more like a wind farm, as it’s surrounded by turbines. We’d done our homework before, and we learned that the site, built in the early 1960s, used to be a U.S. Navy radio station active during the Cold War. Not only that, but after the closure of NAVCOMMSTA Londonderry in 1977, it became crucial to monitor the North Atlantic and the North Sea until November 1992, when it ceased operation and the Americans left. The site maintained some activity because of some of the existing facilities (basketball court, bowling alley, swimming pool, baseball diamond), but then in 2003 it was transformed into a business park. And in 2020, North Point Distillery moved in!

  • The barrels told us the way to the distillery, thankfully.

We learned about North Point because of their other spirits (more on this later), but their inclusion in the 2025 Malt Whisky Yearbook meant that they started distilling newmake spirit for whisky, sparking our curiosity. The visit almost didn’t happen, because the Founders’ tour (the in-depth one, but they also have a shorter option for £12) was not scheduled on Saturdays. However, we’d noticed that the shop was open, so we got in contact and they agreed to give us a tour! This kindness is not a given, as other distilleries would have just turned us away, so many thanks to them! As we arrived Alex MacDonald, one of the founders and our guide for the afternoon, spotted us right away, and introduced himself while we entered the Murkle building. This is where their offices, shop and part of production are. Despite his surname, Alex is Canadian, and came to Scotland to play rugby. After getting an MSc in Business, he founded the distillery with Struan Mackie (native of the North Coast). The company is independently owned, and they recently obtained the B Corp Certification, to testify their effort in sustainability.

  • Yes, we got to the right place.

The part of production near the offices is mostly dedicated to the other spirits, although one of the whisky stills is also there. The stills are all named after members of their families (some still alive, who apparently complained) and they are custom made by a Serbian company. They are all electric, not very common in Scotland. Right in front of the stills, we could check out their massive collection of botanicals, while tasting three spirit samples each (excluding Gianluigi, the driver). They started in 2020 with one 500-litre still, Sandy Stroma, to produce their Highland Rum and their gin, and they later added Audrey, a small experimental one (for smaller batches as well, including for clients).

  • The first still, Sandy Stroma.

For the rum they buy molasses from Barbados, and they ferment them with Kviek Norwegian ale yeast for a week, before running it through the still. Their main product, delicate and sweet, is the Pilot Rum (aged for 1-year in ex-whisky casks), named after the pilots of the Pentland Firth, who used to guide bigger ships through those dangerous waters. They later added the Spice Rum (43%): for this, they found a recipe (including cocoa, orange, vanilla pods, and other 18 botanicals) that tries to replicate the experience of drinking rum while eating a Terry’s Orange. In the same stills, they also produce the Crosskirk Bay Gin, made with juniper imported from Tuscany (because of a higher concentration in oils), Szechuan and pink peppers, and other botanicals. Edoardo particularly appreciated the gin and its oiliness, the last of the three-spirit flight.

  • Plenty of botanicals here.

As we were saying, one of the whisky stills is also in the same building: Gertie, the 1000-litre spirit still. While Alex explained that they obtained the license for whisky in 2021, he gave us a newmake spirit sample of what will become Dalclagie Single malt. Until 2023 they mostly did research and development, including 40+ mashbills before finding the one they wanted for their malt.

  • Newmake, malternatives, and beautiful stills in the background.

Alex then walked us to where the rest of whisky production is, inside an adjacent, much bigger building. They get pre-milled malted barley from Crisp, mostly Maris Otter, processing 4 tons every two weeks. They are still experimenting a lot, in particular around Christmas, with both barley and yeast: a fun time for their distiller Greg. They also have plans to trial some heritage “bourbon-style” mash recipes. Mashing is carried out in a 2000-litre mashtun for 9 hours, while they have six wooden washbacks: two Wilhelm Elder, and four former vatting used by Diageo for the Johnny Walker Blue label (one of them is called Angus). We wondered if they were still haunted by the whisky of the ghost distilleries that went into that. After 7 to 10 days of fermentation with Kviek yeast, they finally run the first distillation in the 2000-litre wash still, Nettie.

  • Quite a unique setting for production.
  • Nettie and us.

Then it is moved into the building we were in before, for the final distillation, with Gertie: cut points are always made based on aroma and taste. At the moment they store most casks (palletised) in the same main production building. Among the casks, a small cabinet with some bottles: in fact, the Founders’ experience included a sample of three aging malt spirits, one chosen by each of the co-founders, and one chosen by the distiller. Two of them were an 11-month-old Chateau Talbot red wine cask (at ~65%), and a 12-month-old ex-Jim Beam bourbon cask (~64%). Despite the young age they were very different, the first one richer, the latter carrying a lot of hints of newmake spirit. The third cask sample was not available on the day, so instead Alex treated us with a delicious E.H. Taylor Bottle-in-bond bourbon (50%abv).

  • Promising experiments.

Then, before the tour ended, it was time for a surprise: a trip to the bunker. Being former military buildings, most of them come with a bunker, and they didn’t let go the opportunity to use it for cask maturation (stored horizontally there). We’d never been to a bunker before, so it was a great experience, and we’re very curious to see how the whisky will mature there, compared to the main warehouse.

As we left the production/warehouse to go back where we started, Alex pointed us to some buildings they are trying to acquire for potential expansion: exciting times for them. Back at the shop we had a rugby chit chat: despite Alex used to be a hooker, Edoardo a fullback, and Gianluigi a referee, they seem to have (surprisingly) gotten along, eheh. Overall, we really enjoyed the time spent there, and Alex gave us a great tour. The project is interesting and considering how well they are doing with the current spirits, their single malt will be one to keep an eye out for. The tasting in the warehouse and the visit to the bunker were the cherry on the top, which made this tour a bit different and innovative.

  • A bunker as a warehouse, that’s a first.

We soon left the site, under an overcast sky, driving towards the Forsinard RSPB in the Flow Country. This is a truly majestic landscape, one of the biggest peatlands in Western Europe, now a conservation area: peat bogs are more efficient than forests to capture carbon dioxide. We also got soaked by a storm, so we rested a bit inside the RSPB visitor centre, getting some warm drinks in exchange for donations, and watching the full half-hour video. Back on the road, we drove south inland, and then north-west towards Tongue. We looked for a place to stay trying to avoid the midges: we failed.

  • Amazing peatland.

The day after we continued on the North Coast 500, stopping at the Smoo Cave and in Durness for some shopping, and then for a fantastic seafood late lunch at the Kylesku Hotel, in the namesake village. We finally stayed in a quite pricey (£50 for one night!) but scenic campsite just north of Ullapool. We managed to have dinner outside, but as soon as the wind calmed, midges came back, so we had to retreat in the campervan where we spent the night sipping some Springbank samples: one of Edoardo’s favourite, so we’re always sure to have some for when he comes over.

  • Brothers in water.

The final day, after a hot breakfast in Ullapool, we drove straight back to Edinburgh, with a stop for a walk at the Corrieshalloch Gorge (very scenic, just a shame for the…midges!), and a final last stop at Tomatin distillery. There, Edoardo and Gianluigi shared a flight of their bottle-your-own drams (pricey, but generally good) and one of Cu Bocan (their lightly peated malt), plus a couple of sherry expressions: the Manzanilla and the PX finished ones were particularly delicious. After that, we slowly drove back to Leith, where we arrived in time for a quiet dinner and a final dram.

  • Unplanned but welcomed stop to finish off the weekend.

First, we loved this trip, and we had a fantastic time up in the Highlands. Landscapes are fantastic, and although we had been there before, this time we really appreciated why it became so popular. It’s really a magic place. Second, the distilleries: we had a very good time up north. Apart from Pulteney, which was a bit too corporate and impersonal (not the guide’s fault), Wolfburn, which was the other one well established, was just fantastic. The two new distilleries, 8 Doors and North Point, were both great as well – we were walked through the detail of their projects, and people’s passion was contagious. During both visits we could try their newmake spirit, and although someone might think that it is a given for new distilleries, after visiting a number we can say that it really isn’t. Kudos to them, and we’ll patiently wait for their single malt whiskies.

After a pause, we’ll be back with a Fife experience! Until then, slàinte!

North Point Founders’ Tour

Price: £30.00 pp (July 2025)

Duration: 1hr (in theory, but it was longer)

Tasting: Pilot Rum (40%), Crosskirk Bay Gin (45.1%), Spiced Rum (43%), Dalclagie Newmake spirit (63,5%), 11m spirit ex-wine cask (~65%), 12m spirirt ex-bourbon cask (~65%), and we had a dram to replace the third spirit sample (not available on the day, see text)

Highlights: the bunker and the warehouse tasting

Target: whisky and spirits enthusiasts, and Cold War nerds

Value for money: good

Recommended: absolutely

Link: https://www.northpointdistillery.com/

#63.3 As north as you can get (on the mainland)

The Wolf(burn) is loose*

 

TL; DR: After escaping the haar in Jonh O’Groats, we arrived in Thurso for another long-due visit: Wolfburn distillery. Charlie was a very competent and knowledgeable tour guide, and we really liked the tour. The distillery is lovely, and the malts we tried were delicious: definitely one we’d happily go back to.

(missed Part 2/Part 1?)

We woke up surrounded by the haar. A thick and pervasive fog, obviously coming from the sea. From where Mr. Vantastic was parked, we couldn’t even see the shore, a mere 100-120 meters away. We couldn’t help but think what could have meant for people a few hundred years ago, not knowing what was hiding behind a wall of fog like that: nothing maybe, or merchants, or unfortunately raiders sometimes. Nevertheless, thick fog can also provide a sense of calm and peace, like if everything is slowing down.

  • Where’s the sea?

That morning we couldn’t slow down really, as we had to shower, fix and eat breakfast, and wrap up the van by 9.15 maximum. Our first destination was about 40 minutes away, and we had to be there at 10am. Somehow we managed to do everything on time, and soon we were on the road, leaving the haar behind as we drove. During the drive we spotted a distillery to-be in the former Castletown Mill, between John O’Groats and Thurso, set up by the company behind the very popular Rock Rose gin. The single malt will be called Stannergill. The site looked under construction (we’re in July ’25), but we could see the still already positioned, so they must be not too far from completion. Another visit for another time.

The first distillery we visited that day was one of the first coming online in the new wave of the 2010s: Wolfburn distillery. They have been around for a while, and in fact their first 12y single malt was released earlier this year. The name comes from a burn that flows near the distillery, which is also their water source. There used to be an older distillery called Wolfburn located roughly in the same area, in the outskirt of Thurso, in what now is a small industrial estate. The old distillery was founded in 1821, licensed in 1823, but closed down in 1858, with all the equipment sold at auction. This was decades before Alfred Barnard visited the area, so no record of it in his book. The new distillery was founded in 2011, and was up and running in 2013. The distillery manager and master blender, Shane Fraser, had previous experience at Glenfarclas, while the two owners were new to the spirits industry. While Wolfburn single malt has been around for a while, it doesn’t seem to be too common: we’d only tried a few expressions in the 2020 lockdown during two online whisky festivals, the Summerton whisky club festival and the Belfast whiskey week. We generally liked it, in particular the peated version (Morven), but since then, we tried Wolfburn only a handful of times, so it started fading a bit from our palate. A first plan to visit the distillery failed in 2021 because of a Covid-related issue, and we couldn’t fit Caithness in the rescheduled trip. No more plans were done to visit them…Until this summer! Hurray!

  • Right place, on time. Yay!

We arrived at the distillery five minutes earlier, while our soon-to-be guide Charlie was opening the visitor centre. The distillery production is in a warehouse, together with the shop and some offices. As we entered, we could spot all the equipment from the wide hall: malt bin, mill and mashtun on the left, washbacks and stills in front of us, two tanks for water and spent ale, and the shop, on the right. Fun fact, the tanks come from the demolished Caperdonich distillery, from Rothes. So, after Belgian Owl (still) and Falkirk (still and mashtun), Wolfburn is the third distillery we know of that uses equipment from the defunct Caperdonich. The plant was built by Forsyths, and it was the first project Richard Forsyths took on.

As it was just the three of us, the tour started right away, and after some background information, Charlie started describing the production process. Currently they are only producing four days a week, Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday: we wondered if that is because of the current sales slowdown in the whisky market (and potential overproduction in the industry in general). At first, they only had two people working in production, now they are four, and production went from 100,000 litres per annum to 125,000.

  • Nice view on arrival. To note the red tanks from Caperdonich.

They get the malt from Inverness, one lorry every 4 to 5 weeks while, as we said, water comes from the nearby Wolf burn. They aim for a light and floral spirit, mostly unpeated: only 3 out of 11 barley deliveries per year contain lightly peated malt to 10 ppm. To make sure not to mix peated and unpeated runs, the first distillation after their peated period (and cleaning) goes into ex-Islay quarter casks anyway. In general, they mill 1.1ton of malted barley (with the usual split for the grist, 20/70/10) and mash it (twice a day, 8 mashes a week) first with 4,000 litres of water at 64.5°C, and then with another 1,000 litre at 80°C. The third water, 4,000 litres at 90°C, is stored for the following mash. Mashing takes 5.5 hours, and at the end of the process they obtain a clear wort, and sell the draff to cattle farmers. The wort, 5,000 litres, is moved to one of the very tall washbacks: they are so tall that they don’t need defoaming.

  • Good to see everything is signposted.

Fermentation lasts 72 hours for the Monday and Tuesday batches, while 96 for the Thursday and Friday ones (so 84 hours on average), and is kicked off using distillers’ yeast to obtain an 8.5% wash. At the end of the catwalk between the washbacks there are the two copper stills, both equipped with a steam coil inside, heated by a kerosene boiler. First distillation lasts about 5.5 hours, while the second one only 4.5 hours; during the latter, they take the spirit between 74% and 61%abv, a quite wide cut, discarding the first 40 minutes of foreshots, and the last 1.5 hours as feints.

  • The unmissable selfie with the stills.

At that point Charlie walked us to warehouse 1, the first past the distillery, where we could see a number of different cask types and sizes, which they get from the Speyside Cooperage.  Casks are stored horizontally above ground: a proper modern dunnage warehouse. He told us that warehouse 2 (the next one) is identical, while warehouse 3, on the other side, hosts the bottling plant as well (the water to reduce the abv is from the burn as well). There are two more warehouses – Charlie said that on top of the distilling history, land availability was crucial for choosing the site.

  • Warehouse 1, bigger than we thought.

Back to the main building, it was time for the tasting, with a branded perfect-dram glass for us to take home. The first dram was Wolfburn Aurora, made with an even split between 1st fill ex-bourbon and 2nd fill sherry casks, bottled at 46%. It’s a non-age statement whisky, similar to most of the expressions we tried, but Charlie told us that as older stock becomes available, the average age increases, and is now around 8 years. Second up, the Northland (46%, NAS but again around 8y), unpeated spirit aged in ex-Islay cask: peat is there but very subtle, so much that Edoardo bought a 20cl bottles to give to a pal who claims they don’t like peated whisky…We’re waiting for the response. The third dram, Langskip, was cask strength (57%), from 7y and 8y 1st fill ex-bourbon barrels: a floral deliciousness. The last two drams were the 10y (46%, 2nd fill Oloroso casks) and the Morven (46%, again ex-Islay casks, but peated spirit).

  • Quite the display for a delicious tasting.

In the shop they have quite a variety of bottlings, other than their core range (in 70cl and 20cl bottlings, and 5cl miniatures): the new 12y (60%ex-bourbon and 40% sherry casks), a small batch Cognac Cask (46%, finished one year in ex-Cognac cask), the Drams on The Burn (a vatting of few casks for a local festival), a couple of small batches (one ex-Rum, another cask strength) and the “fill-your-own-bottle” (details below) single-cask expression. Everything is also very well priced between £45 and £75 (for 70cl bottles), except the “fill-your-own-bottle”, which is a tenner or two too expensive in our opinion.

  • Bottle-your-own.

As the tasting ended, we quickly left, as we didn’t have much time before our next tour. We had to decide whether to go to Lidl or to try go watch the second half of the first test between Australia and the British and Irish Lions. With Gianluigi and Edoardo being rugby fans, we obviously chose the latter, and we drove back to Top Joe’s, in Thurso. They don’t do food, but we could order some tasty sandwiches from the next door Central café menu.

Overall, both the tour and the tasting at Wolfburn were great, one of the best and most satisfactory experiences we did recently in an established Scottish distillery (we’re excluding the new ones that haven’t released their own whisky yet). Charlie was an excellent guide, very knowledgeable, and very engaging too. Their range of malts is very tasty and various, and the delicate, floral (but also very fruity) spirit signature is clearly there in all the different expressions we tried. Definitely one you should keep an eye on, and if you’re in the area, go to.

Next up, the final northern distillery, but with a twist, so stay tuned! Until then, slàinte!

Wolfburn Classic Tour and Tasting

Price: £19.50 pp (£18.00 when we visited in July 2025)

Duration: 1hr 30min

Tasting: 5 drams, Wolfburn Aurora (46%, NAS), Northland (46%, NAS), Langskip (58%, NAS), 10y (46%), Morven (46%), and a perfect-dram glass to take home

Distillery exclusive: Fill-your-own-bottle 2018 ex-Bourbon cask (7y, 59.3%, £89.99)

Highlights: the tasting

Target: everyone, both occasional and seasoned drinkers

Value for money: great

Recommended: yes

Link: https://wolfburn.com/

“The hero of the gods
The crossing of the threshold
The belly of the whale
Refusal of return”

*The wolf is loose, Blood Mountain (2006), Mastodon

  • © imago images/Gonzales Photo/Terje Dokken

We’ll miss you Brent, crazy guitar genius.

#63.2 As north as you can get (on the mainland)

Pushing north: 8 Doors distillery

 

TL; DR: After the morning in Wick, we spent the rest of the day in John O’Groats. After a trip to a nearby lighthouse, we visited 8 Doors distillery, where Ryan gave us an extremely interesting and geeky tour of their operation. Even though we’ll have to wait for their single malt, it’s definitely a must-do visit! 

(missed Part 1?)

There is a human tendency to order facts and figures, probably that’s why articles with rankings, billboards, such as “the X best records of year Y”, “Quentin Tarantino movies ranked”, and so on, preceded the internet by a long time. For whisky brands, having one of the ‘-est’ facts can often be an unmissable chance to make themselves notable, which has become particularly important since the massive wave of new players in the market (are we over 160 distilleries yet? For sure over 150, and just for malt ones). The “biggest”, “oldest”, “southmost”, “highest”, or “the only distillery on Skye”…which now became “the oldest distillery on Skye”. Although some of these traits might actually have a connection with the flavour profile of the whisky advertised, in most cases we wouldn’t read too much into it.

Nonetheless, going back to our long weekend up north, let’s talk about the northmost distilleries in Scotland. The northmost used to be Highland Park on Orkney, although now it’s probably been beaten by Lerwick distillery (assuming it’s online) on Shetland. On the mainland, it was Pulteney for a long time, but then the (imaginary) trophy went to Wolfburn. Nowadays there is a new winner of this race: 8 Doors distillery, in the village of John O’Groats, which is where we were headed after our tour at Pulteney. The village is only about half hour driving from Wick, almost straight north, along the rugged North Sea coast. We only stopped to put some diesel in the tank, and to save time we ate our pre-prepared sandwiches while driving (the Lidl rosemary focaccia, with grilled aubergines and roast turkey: delicious!). We took advantage of the stunning sunny, warm and breezy weather to visit the Duncansby Head Lighthouse.

  • Such a nice day to head to a lighthouse.

It is only a few km away from John O’Groats, just a short drive on a secondary single-track road. The building is not accessible, but there is a stunning walk starting from the car-park on the cliff near a marine bird nest (we saw puffins here! Unfortunately our phones’ cameras are too crappy to take decent pictures) and a view on the Duncansby Stacks, a very scenic rock formation. Back to the car park, we drove to the John O’Groats Campsite to drop Mr. Vantastic before going to the distillery, which is just a couple of minutes away. As a matter of fact, everything in John O’Groats seems to be two minutes away from everything else: the distillery, the shop, the campsite, the signpost, the pier, the brewery, although the rest of the village is quite spread out.

  • Duncansby Stacks…Breathtaking (the picture not so much).

We arrived at the 8 Doors distillery a few minutes after 3.00pm, the time we originally agreed with Ryan Sutherland, the distillery manager, who moved to 8 Doors after an extensive experience with William Grant & Sons (Glenfiddich, Balvenie, Grant’s). Ryan is a fellow barfly and although we’d never met in person before, we’d chatted online a few times. When we started planning this trip, we asked him if he could give us a tour of the site, which he kindly agreed to. As we entered the visitor centre, we had to move around a swarm of tourists coming from a cruise ship: not a rare occurrence in summer, as Ryan told us later, which can put some pressure on the staff. Fortunately, the shop/cafè is wide enough for everyone, it has a big window facing north towards the Pentland Firth and a fireplace – a cosy and relaxing space. Ryan took us to the tasting room, between the shop and production, to drop our bags, but we soon moved to the main production area. The distillery is quite self-contained, and from the main area we could see most of the equipment.

  • Ready for another distillery tour.

The distillery started production in 2022. Founders Kerry and Derek wanted to bring distilling back to John O’Groats and its community, and to do so they employed a consultant, John Ramsay (former Edrington), who is now the master blender. A short-lived distillery existed between 1826 and 1838, and illicit distilling was common in the area before. The name of the distillery comes from the founder of the village, John De Groot, which had seven sons and to avoid fights, he built an octagonal house where each of them (him and the sons) had a door and a window. We wondered if, in their shoes, we’d take the south facing one, for the sunlight, or the north facing one, for the view on the Firth.

The distillery is a small operation, producing only about 36,000 litres of spirit per year (in theory they could reach 45,000 litres), and is run by one operator, Andrew, and Ryan himself. Ryan described the setup in great detail, including all the small changes he is implementing to make the process more efficient – his engineering background shone through. There is no mill at the moment, so the malt comes in already milled from Simpson maltster (usual 20/70/10 split for husk/grit/flour), but in the future they are hoping to get the malt locally from Caithness producers. They are also considering using oat, which would be super interesting, as only a handful of Scottish distilleries are using this cereal (Inchdairnie and…actually we cannot think of any other).

  • The repurposed mashtun.

The mashing equipment comes from a defunct brewery in East Lothian, Archfield Brewhouse, and has been repurposed to work in a distillery. Because of this, together with the usual mashtun, there is also a kettle, that comes in handy to pre-heat the water with the heat exchanger. For each mash they use one 400kg bag of grist together with 1,200 litres of water: the 3-to-1 ratio makes it a thick one, cloudy at first but they let it decant for a while. Between the first and second water they get 1,800 litres of wort, which is then moved to one of the four 2,000-litre stainless steel washbacks (there is a fifth, but it’s not been used). Fermentation lasts about 100 hours on average to get a wash at up to 9%abv. Here is where it gets interesting: depending on the variety of barley, they try to pick a yeast to obtain a determined flavour profile. Among the barley varieties used, Lauriet, Firefox and Diablo, but also Cara Gold, Maris Otter and Golden Promise. Yeast-wise, M1 is the main one, which results in a fruit-forward wash, but they also use XP for red fruits flavours, Norwegian beer yeast Kveik/Hornindal, MW, D23 and MGplus. In general, they produce their house-style for most of the year, while in December and January they run more experimental batches.

  • Fermentation check.

The stills and the spirit safe are on a raised floor, and fun fact: from there we spotted Mr Vantastic in the campsite! The stills are from Speyside Copperworks, which is now owned by Forsyths. The first distillation in the 1,700-litre wash still is very slow, about 7 hours, while the second one is carried out in the 1,300-litre spirit still. They run the foreshots for 15 minutes, then the heart (or spirit) is collected within 3 hours, from 71.5% to 64% abv. They aim to produce about one hogshead per day.

  • Sorry we’re covering the second still.

After all these technical details, Ryan took us outside to have a quick look at the LPG boiler and head to the warehouse, a low building on the other side of the distillery staff car park. Here we saw a multitude of casks of different sizes. They mostly fill ex-Sherry casks from Casknolia of various sizes (from 50-litre octave to 5,090-litre butts), but also casks previously used for their Seven Sons range. The filling strength is the standard 63.5%, and the type of cask used also depends on the barley/yeast combination: interesting experiments they are running at the moment are an ex-brandy cask filled with spirit obtained from Cara Gold barley and D23 yeast, or a former Booker’s bourbon cask with spirit fermented with Hornindal yeast. All of these, albeit technical, sounded very cool, and our science-y brains were quite triggered by all these potential permutations.

  • A peek into the warehouse next door.

Back to the tasting room, we were ready for the whisky flight. First off, a small taste of newmake spirit (63.5%), fruity and cereal, as you’d expect for a good one. Then, we moved on to the Seven Sons whisky range (named after John De Groot sons). First, the 10y blended scotch (46.7%), characterised by a high malt content (40%) with the grain component coming from North British. This is one of their “house” whiskies – not all batches are identical (this is the 9th), but they aim for a nice-sipping blend, and they nailed it! Edoardo took one home to share with his friends over the next 6 Nations – as Italians we need something good to hang on to. The second dram was a blended malt, a 12y teaspooned Dalrymple from Ailsa Bay, bottled at 57.1% (100 of the old imperial proofs), from a third fill European cask, which provided a mild and delicate flavour. The third dram was a single malt, a 6y sherried (Oloroso) and very vibrant Glen Wyvis from a Firkin cask (52.1%), the cherry on the top. We finished the tasting with their Five Ways whisky liqueur (22%), and a cheeky “Manager’s Dram”, a delicious blend produced with the idea of recreating a 1970s Famous Grouse.

  • This will satisfy our thirst.

What a geeky and awesome tour! We loved everything about the distillery and how they set up their plan, and it was really great to listen to Ryan explaining in detail how the distillery works. 8 Doors is one to keep an eye on, where we’d like to go back to (not just for the beautiful scenery). We are looking forward to the release of their first single malt!

  • Not a bad spot for the night.

After the distillery, we walked a bit around John O’Groats, before going back to the van and start a barbecue. It was a bit windy, but nonetheless we managed to grill some massive Hellbent burgers. The evening ended with a pint at the John O’Groats brewery/pub, a very cosy place just in the middle of the village.

Next up, another former “northmost” distillery on mainland Scotland, so stay tuned! Until then, slàinte!

8 Doors Distillery (bespoke tour*)

Price: £23.33 pp (July 2025)

Duration: 2hr

Tasting: newmake spirit (63.5%) and 4 drams, Seven Sons Blended Whisky (10y, 46%), Blended Malt (12y, Dalrymple, 57.1%), Single Malt Glen Wyvis (6y, 52%), Five Ways Ginger Whisky Liqueur (22%)

Distillery exclusive: bottle-your-own versions of a whisky from the Seven Sons range and Five Ways whisky liqueur (forgot to take note of the prices, sorry)

Highlights: the location and Ryan’s knowledge

Target: casual tourists and whisky geeks alike

Value for money: very good

Recommended: yes

Link: https://www.8doorsdistillery.com/home

(*similar to the Behind the Scenes tour https://www.8doorsdistillery.com/tours, but longer and with extra drams)

#63.1 As north as you can get (on the mainland)

Pulteney: the old one in Wick

 

TL; DR: Another long weekend this summer, this time up to the Northmost North of the Northern Highlands. And we have a special guest, Edoardo again, Gianluigi’s brother and whisky enthusiast. First off, the oldest distillery in the area: Pulteney. A nice tour ending with a decent 4-dram tasting. 

It’s slightly windy at the Ruthven Barracks, but not cold at all. The night is very clear, and if it wasn’t for the midges we could have spent some time outside. Instead, we retread immediately inside Mr Vantastic, accompanied by the distant noise of vehicles driving on the A9. We arrived directly from Glasgow, the two of us and Edoardo, Gianluigi’s brother. He was supposed to land in Edinburgh around lunchtime, and the idea was to go visit Glasgow where he’d never been despite his many travels to Scotland. However, the flight was delayed by over 90 minutes (thanks Easyjet), plus another 40 to wait for the luggage, which meant that by the time him and Gianluigi parked the van in Glasgow, it was already late afternoon. On top of that, it started pouring rain, so not much sightseeing happened that day. Instead, the two brothers sheltered at the Pot Still, waiting for Teresa to come out of the office. After a spicy meal at the Rosa’s Thai, we left towards the destination for the long weekend: the Northern Highlands.

As we were saying, we stopped for the night at the Ruthven Barracks car park, near Kingussie. It is slightly uneven and there are no facilities, so it was ok for one night, but probably next time we’ll search for an alternative spot. The next day we had an early start anyway: the 3-hour drive was interrupted only by a 15-minute break in Aviemore for coffee and roll. We had an appointment at a very old and popular distillery, that somehow, we never came across during our trips: Pulteney, in Wick. It belongs to Inver House, together with Balblair, Speyburn (both visited), Knockdhu and Balmenach (both closed to visitors, so naye). The single malt, Old Pulteney, is famous for being a coastal dram and their basic expressions are very prevalent in supermarkets (Harbour and 12y, both 40%abv).

  • A long drive to get here, but totally worth it.

Pulteney distillery will turn 200 next year and is currently stretching the silent season to allow some renovations in time for the celebrations. In the mid-1880s Alfred Barnard approached it, and the Royal Bourgh of Wick, from the north, travelling along the rugged coast, on his way south after spending some time on Orkney. Instead, we arrived from the south, on the smooth A99: things must have changed quite a bit in the last 140 years. The distillery is in the southern part of the village, before the Wick River, and between the main road and the coast. We parked Mr Vantastic near the Pulteney community centre, just next door. You can tell the old from the new buildings around, as the former are all blackened by the Baudoinia fungus, digesting away the alcohol in the “angels’ share” (i.e. evaporating). We got in a few minutes earlier to check the shop before our tour started: the front part is very small, but in the back, they have a bigger lounge decorated with memorabilia, and a spacious but cosy tasting room. We chose the From the Source tour (£40.00pp), which has an improved tasting compared to A Taste of Old Pulteney (£20.00pp, 2 drams), but not as expensive as the Flagship Experience (£125.00pp!!!, 6 drams).

  • Reading about the history of the distillery before the tour.

Our guide was Tim, who used to work in Glasgow before going back to his native Wick during the pandemic, and it was a small tour: the three of us and another person. Tim started with the usual history of the distillery – founded in 1826, initially was only accessible by the sea, and it was acquired by John Dewar & Sons in 1924, which in turn joined the Distillery Company Limited (DCL, Diageo’s precursor) in 1925. After prohibition started in Wick in 1922, the distillery was closed in 1930 and reopened in 1951, four years after prohibition was abolished. The distillery than went to Hiram Walker’s (1954), Allied Distillers (1961) and finally to Inver House (1995). During the Hiram Walker period, Pulteney malt was a component of Ballantine’s blended Scotch.

  • A classic Porteus mill.

The malting floor, dismissed decades ago, was above the visitor centre, while the cooperage used to be in one of the visitor rooms. Nowadays they bring in malted barley from Inverness, in 30ton weekly batches. They have a bright red Porteus mill for grinding the malt, and water comes from Loch Hempriggs (to the south of Wick) in a stream system engineered by Telford, that we’d see later. Each mash is done with 5 tons of grist, in a copper-lidded mashtun, which was replaced about 20 years ago. They do four rounds of water at increasing temperatures (60° to 90°C), with the last two ready for the next mash. The (cloudy) mash is then pumped into one of the seven washbacks, while the draff is sent away for cattle feed. Fermentation lasts 60 hours normally, 100 for the batches going over the weekend, and is triggered by 25 kg of distiller’s yeast which is added to the 23,500 litres of wort. At the end of the process, they get an approximately 8.5% abv wash, which is then sent to the wash still.

  • The mashtun from above.

They have two stills: the wash still has the top clearly cut off (it was too tall for the building) and has a massive bulge in the middle, much bigger than usual; and the spirit still lyne arm is almost entangled – definitely a unique pair of stills. Each still is equipped with a stainless-steel squared worm tub condenser, with a 110m copper pipe inside, placed outside the still room. In the second distillation the foreshots usually last 16 minutes and the first cut is taken depending on the temperature, while the second is taken at 68%.

  • The most unusual wash still…
  • …and a slightly less unusual spirit still. Look at that lyne arm!

After the still room, we went back outside in the courtyard, and then into the filling store: they cask onsite but also fill tankers, in particular for the distillate that is sold to third parties, mostly for blends (still Ballantine’s? The Inver House blend is the Hanky Bannister though). After checking out the biomass boiler, we visited the warehouses: 10,000 casks are stored on their side in rows 3 high in a warehouse (but not dunnage, as the floor is concrete), while other 14,000 are in the other buildings, mostly racked. However, they are in the process of building another four warehouses, to accommodate for Pulteney production of about 1.2 million litres of alcohol per year. The mostly fill ex-bourbon casks from Jim Beam, but inside the warehouse we spotted other casks too, sherry in particular.

  • Terror in the warehouse.

It was time for the tasting, in a very cosy and wide room. We started with the classic Old Pulteney 12 (40%), mostly matured in refill ex-bourbon cask. It’s a very decent malt, possibly a bit thin. We can’t just help wonder how increasing the abv to 43% or 46%, and not chill-filtering it, would improve it. It was followed by the 15y and the 18y, both bottled at 46% (yay!), and both with a similar double-maturation (or finishing?) concept: they spend 13 and 14 years in ex-bourbon casks, and they are then re-racked into Oloroso sherry casks. They’re solid and tasty drams, benefiting from the saltiness of the spirit and the dark fruitness (is this a thing?) of the cask finish. Finally, our last dram was supposed to be the distillery exclusive (as it was advertised on the website, see below for the specs), but apparently they’d finished their “tasting stock” (whatever that means in corporate BS language, they still had many bottles in the shop), so instead they gave us the second expression of their Coastal Series, matured 5-6 years in ex-bourbon and then 5-6 years in Ruby Port seasoned cask. Not bad, but a tad too sweet.

  • Nice display for the tasting.

When Teresa and Edoardo finished their drams, we went back to the shop and quickly left. Overall, the distillery was super interesting, the tour was fine, the tasting was decent, and Tim was a knowledgeable guide. Being in such a remote place (about 5hr driving from the Central Belt) you’d think they could do something a bit more special, but it was along the lines of the Balblair tour we did back in 2023. So, unless we’ll be in the area for their 200th anniversary, we’ll hardly go back…Never say never, though.

Next up a much much nerdier experience, so stay tuned! Until then, slàinte!

Pulteney ‘From The Source’ Tour

Price: £40.00 pp (July 2025)

Duration: 2hr

Tasting: 4 drams, Old Pulteney 12 (40%), 15 (46%), 18 (46%) and Coastal Series Port cask matured (46%), plus a complimentary glencairn

Distillery exclusive: D.E. French Cask matured (NAS, 53%, £85.00); Distillery Hand Bottling ex-Sherry cask (13y, 2010-2024, 62.5%, £130.00); Distillery Hand Bottling ex-Bourbon cask (18y, 2006-2025, 58.4%, £150.00)

Highlights: the shape of the stills and the site in general

Target: whisky curious, the tasting was a bit too basic for the enthusiasts

Value for money: ok

Recommended: for Old Pulteney fans

Link: https://oldpulteney.com/visit-pulteney-distillery/