Exploring Port of Leith
TL; DR: This last October we were supposed to run the Wee dram (10k) at the Dramathon, but because of adverse weather conditions we had to cancel our weekend. Weekend in Speyside gone, we made it up with local attractions, in particular our first visit to the brand-new Port of Leith distillery!
Finally, it came that period of the year again, towards August, where we start training a bit more seriously to prepare for the Dramathon. This year, however, we had decided to run the 10k only, for two reasons: too much stuff going on at work so not a lot of time to train for a half marathon, and because last year we ended up very tired. Another difference, Gianluigi’s brother would come from Italy to join us for the 10k. Because of that, the following day we had planned to visit one of our favourite distilleries in the area: Glenallachie!
Well, things didn’t exactly go as planned, as a storm of (not only) bad luck hit us. First, a couple of weeks before the run, we found out that the original accommodation we booked for Gianluigi’s brother and his girlfriend had ceased activity, but neither they (in spite a few emails from us to inform of late check-in) nor Booking.com told us. Then, during the week before the race we both got Covid. Being the third time, it wasn’t that bad…so we just rested for a few days. But then, the straw that breaks the camel’s back: storm Babet. The area of the race was deemed safe at first, until the late evening before the event: the Scottish Environmental Protection Agency communicated a red alert for flood of the river Spey in Aberlour. This was not only where the 10k was starting and all the other races were supposed to run through, but also where the alternative accommodation was located (less than 150 metres from the river…). So, at that stage we could only give up. Bummer!
Not bad as a plan B.
In the morning, we cheered ourselves up with a big breakfast at the Up the Junction cafe, in Leith (one of our favourites). As a back-up plan, we took advantage of the emptied day to go visit our brand-new local distillery: Port of Leith! It is actually not the first distillery in the neighbourhood, as the Bonnington distillery (owned by Crabbie’s) is not far from our flat. It is very close to the Water of Leith walkway, our usual running ground, so it’s not uncommon for us to smell some mashing or fermenting while running. The distillery is closed to visitors, so smelling is indeed the closest thing we can do.
Warm-up tasting before the tour.
Around midday, we walked towards Ocean Terminal and then to the Port of Leith distillery, where our friends from the Edinburgh Whisky Group were celebrating one of our pals’ birthday. As we joined the jolly bunch in the rooftop bar, we realised how beautiful this place is, with an amazing view of our lovely neighbourhood, including the docks, and the rest of Edinburgh! We ordered a flight with their “creations”: the Table Whisky (a blended grain), the Perpetuity blend Batch 1 and 2, and a dram from Woven, a local small blending company. All decent drams, the Perpetuity Batch 2 won for all the three of us. We then joined the 1pm distillery tour: btw, we were surprised by the number of tours available!
The tour started on a lower floor, where the guide Ellie told us the history of the company, born from the vision of Ian and Paddy, who started experimenting with a small Portuguese copper still (now on display) in their back garden. Their pursue of flavour, in particular the effect of yeast and barley strains, led them to partner with the International Centre for Brewing and Distilling, at the Herriot Watt University. After some stop-and-go that saw them losing the original plot where the distillery was supposed to be, they started Lind and Lime gin production, but then their vision finally came to life when they built the first vertical distillery in Scotland, and the highest in the world (42m, vs, Sweden’s Mackmyra 37m).
A very shiny mashtun.
In the production area, everything is brand new: in fact at the time of our visit they hadn’t started distilling yet. The mill is on the floor right below the hospitality ones, while the mashtun (semi-lauter) and seven 7,500 litres washbacks are located on the one just below. Ellie explained us that they use water from both Edinburgh tap and from a 132m deep borehole. They aim for a 1.5 hour mash, and a fermentation between 42 and 72 hours, and with of course lot of yeast experimentation. Further down, the two stills for the double distillation, behind a big window facing Newhaven. The spirit safe, conversely to many other distilleries (old and new) is made of stainless steel, and looks completely manual.
The still room from above.
The new-generation safe.
We finished the tour with a tasting, as usual. We got served two newmake spirits they did in collaboration with the Glasgow Distillery, made with two different yeasts, one was a Norwegian ale yeast. Then we had a sip of their Oloroso Sherry and Twany Port, which they bottle in Spain and Portugal (a good introduction to these fortified wines, but not great compared to other brands) and finally a dram of Bruichladdich Classic Laddie. Given that they have their range of blended whiskies, we felt this was an odd choice: in our understanding it is because of their admiration for the popular Islay distillery ethos… although we hope they won’t follow the “ethos” in pricing as well (wink wink!).
Getting ready for the tasting.
The tour ended in the shop, but not before bottling a 5cl of 40% newmake spirit to take home: a nice touch. Our afternoon continued with another couple of drams at the bar with our friends, before going home and then to watch the Rugby World Cup semi-final at the Dukes, which used to be our favourite fried chicken burger place in Leith (now they don’t do burgers anymore).
Not a bad view!
Overall, it was a nice tour in a spectacular building, although similarly to Penderyn Swansea, it was a bit weird to visit a distillery that has not started production yet: no mash and wash smell, no liquid flowing through the safe (well, the latter can happen also when visiting distilleries in the weekend, to be fair)… Hopefully they will be distilling soon, so all their experience and research can be finally put into practice!
Until next time, slainte!
Port of Leith Distillery Tour
Price: £26.00 pp (October 2023)
Duration: 1hr 15min
Tasting: two new make spirits with different yeast (produced at Glasgow distillery), Port of Leith Oloroso Sherry and Tawny Port, Bruichladdich Classic Laddie (and 5cl of newmake spirit to take home)
Target: everyone
Value for money: good
Highlights: the vertical production and the rooftop bar
Recommended: once they’ll start production, yes
Link: https://www.leithdistillery.com/
Dramming around 