#47 A dip in the south

A trip to Crafty distillery

TL; DR: Since our first trip to Dumfries and Galloway, there is a new kid on the block down there: Crafty distillery. Previously producing gin and vodka, now they added whisky (well, newmake for the time being) to their portfolio. As the name suggests, their operation is quite small and…”crafty” indeed, very interesting.

Part of the fun of having a campervan is to have the freedom to decide on a trip at the very last minute, without worrying about accommodation (which in Scotland can be quite tricky, both in terms of availability and price). As usual, the idea for the trip came from a newly available whisky distillery tour, this time in Newton Stewart, in Galloway. We’d already been in the area, in 2022 for Teresa birthday’s trip, when we visited Bladnoch (and later Annandale and the Lakes distilleries). However, back then we didn’t hike nor enjoy much the beautiful landscape (also, it was March…and rainy). This time instead, we planned a few non-whisky activities too.

We left early on the Saturday morning, leaving a quiet and still traffic-free Leith. The first stop of the trip, just to grab a coffee and a bite, was Kilmarnock, the town that gave birth to John Walker and its 200 years old legacy. We found a nice spot on the high street (the Courtyard Artisan Bakery, delicious rolls!!), after which we had a short walk to snoop around…after all, this stop wasn’t exactly random. And it paid off, we found what we were looking for: JW original shop building!

It took a while but…
we found it! John Walker shop.

Back in the van, we drove towards Glen Trool, where we’d planned to hike around the namesake Loch before going to our scheduled tour in Newton Stewart. We drove south, towards Ayr, and then in Maybole we turned slightly eastward on a narrow road (between the A713 and A714). Unfortunately, this turned out to be a bad choice (thanks Google!), as the road was interrupted with no previous signage before. So, we had to detour on even narrower roads, through North Balloch, Glengennet and Barr, to rejoin the A714 in Pinmore. It was an adventure, but it meant we were way too late to attempt a hike, so we drove directly to Newton Stewart instead, for a bite before the tour at Crafty distillery. Nothing really inspired us among the options we could find online, so we decided to park at the distillery, which is just outside the village, walk back and choose a place on the fly. However, we were in luck: that day the distillery had a special guest in the courtyard, Triko’s Deli (from Thornhill) with their delicious bagels: lunch was sorted! We still walked to the village for a coffee and to move our legs.

Despite the raod diversions, here we are!

Back at the distillery, it was time for the tour. The distillery is an all-in-one building, with the production just behind the shop. Given the limited space, there are no warehouses on site, but they send their casks to mature a few miles south to Whiskybroker’s warehouses, in Creetown. The tour was very small, six people including us, plus Nicky, the distillery manager, who showed us around.

A very small distillery.

The distillery was founded in 2017, and at first they made gin (Hills&Harbour, quite popular) and vodka (24 Seven), plus a gin liqueur. Contrary to other small and craft gin brands, they do everything from scratch, and don’t buy the neutral grain spirit to be redistilled. They have a column still for that purpose, from which, approximately once every 10 days, they distil a wash obtained from 100% wheat, getting a ~95%abv spirit. For the vodka, the wash is filtered and reduced, while for the gin it is redistilled with 11 botanicals from the coast and the forests around (hence, the name). Back to whisky, they get malted barley from Bairds in 15ton batches. As whisky production was a recent addition, the equipment is not placed in a way to follow the production stages – for example, the two stills are not next to each other. They do 2 mashes per week in a half-ton semi-lauter mashtun, starting with water at 63.5°C. The wort is recirculated in the mashtun to allow filtration by the grist bed, so to get a clear wort. The second water is sparged, in a process similar to brewing. The wort is then moved in one of the two iStill washbacks, each one with a 2,000-litre capacity. Fermentation is quite long, seven days, and it is activated using three types of yeast: distillers, German wheat beer and Champaign. The washbacks are equipped with a cooling jacket to stabilise the fermentation temperature, which made sense given the small building, easy to warm up. They have two stills, a 1,000-litre wash still and a 250-litre spirit still, both with tube-and-shells condensers. The second distillation starts with a 10-minute foreshots run (the head), followed by a spirit cut between 77% and 69% abv, giving about 120 litres of spirit. It is then reduced to 63.5% and put into casks. Every fermentation provides wash for two distillations, from which they get about 250 litres of newmake spirit at filling strength. Other than the usual cask types, they use small American barrels, 110-litre only, provided by the Texas Whitmeyer distillery (now closed?).

The shop and bar (no pictures allowed in the production area, sorry!)

After the production tour, we moved back into the bar/shop for the 3-dram tasting. First, the newmake spirit (63.5%), followed by two aged spirits: a 7-month old from an ex-PX octave cask (~62%), and a 6-month old from an experimental 5-litre Madeira cask…This reminded us of the approach Ardnamurchan had at the beginning, to mature spirit in smaller casks to have a rough idea of how it would be later. As a matter of fact, Nicky worked there before moving to the south of Scotland! The samples were good, of course very cask-forward, but still quite promising.

After the distillery, it was time to catch up our hike at Loch Trool. It was just a 30-minute drive from the distillery, so in less than an hour we were already on the path that loops around the Loch. Despite the car park being almost full, the path was not at all busy, so it ended up being a quiet walk. After the first bit, mostly inside a forest, the path opened up and the view on the loch was quite spectacular. It only rained for a few minutes, luckily so, as we were in the middle of the almost 11k walk when it happened!

A beautiful loch…
…full of history. Stone remembering the Glen Trool battle.

For the night, we’d found a great place to stay: Kirroughtree, managed by Forestry and Land Scotland. It is a leisure centre, with different trails, a mountain bike hire shop, and a café/gift shop. However, it is possible to spend the night there (for £7.00/vehicle), and from the morning there are public toilets open with showers (well, £3 for a cold shower was not ideal, but better than nothing!). If it sounds simple, it’s because it is: almost everything can be paid by card, at any time. We wonder why other places cannot have something like this (yes, we have mainly Islay in mind, but Dornoch and elsewhere too). We’re sure there are difficulties that we cannot think of in managing a night parking, but to be honest it doesn’t look impossible.

Midges destroyed our plan to sip our drams outside.

Unfortunately, there were also some midges, not too many but enough for us to spend the evening inside the van, sipping the leftover drams from Crafty. In the morning, we went for a short run on the hill (Teresa wasn’t too happy about that) before a nice (and cold) shower and a good breakfast (Teresa was much happier then), once the cafè opened. One the way back, we did one further stop at the A.D. Rattray shop, in Maybole, because…why not.

It was a nice trip, we really enjoyed the beauty of this part of Scotland, not as popular as other ones but still fantastic, while visiting a nice wee distillery at the same time. Crafty looks on a good trajectory spirit-wise, so we are looking forward to trying their single malt once ready.

Next week it’s going to be a pause weekend, but then we’ll be back on Islay! Until then, slainte!

Crafty Whisky Distillery Tour

Price: £20.00 pp + £2 booking fee (July 2024)

Duration: 1hr 15min

Tasting: 3 drams newmake spirit (63.5%), 7-month old from an ex-PX octave cask (~62%), and a 6-month old from an experimental 5-litre Madeira cask, plus a glencairn to take home

Target: everyone, but probably mostly suited for whisky curious

Value for money: good

Highlights: a nice place to chill out even if you’re not a whisky fan

Recommended: yes if you’re a whisky curious

Link: https://craftydistillery.com/

Other points of interest in the area

Loch Trool trail: https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/galloway/loch-trool.shtml

Kirroughtree, Galloway Forest Park’s getaway centre: https://forestryandland.gov.scot/visit/forest-parks/galloway-forest-park/kirroughtree

Whiskybroker, Creetown: https://www.whiskybroker.co.uk/?age_consent=1

A.D. Rattray shop, Maybole: https://www.adrattray.com/

#11.2 Birthday in the Borderlands

Tripping in the South of Scotland to Annandale
(Day 2)

The second day in Dumfries & Galloway, driving from Portpatrick to the lovely Annandale distillery!

(missed Day 1? Or go to Day 3)

The morning wasn’t too cold as we went to a nearby hotel for a big breakfast. We went for a short walk on the cliff around Portpatrick, the view of the village was pretty spectacular, but the clouds prevented us to spot Ireland…hopefully next time!

First stop in the morning, Newton Stewart. It looked as a nice, quiet village. Here we met up with Tom, a Gianluigi’s former colleague and his family for coffee and cake. It was great catching up with him, since Gianluigi and Tom hadn’t met in person since March 2020, despite spending a big chunk of the pandemic working together building a Covid model for Scotland.

The road between Newton Stewart and Annan was a quite different landscape compared to others in Scotland. A rug of intense green rolling hills, punctuated by cattle and sheep quietly grazing. We stopped by a smokehouse just past Creetown, on the main road, to get some of their delicious goodies. Past Dumfries, instead keeping on the main road, we drove straight south to Caerlaverock Castle. The visitor centre and the castle were closed, but it was possible to park nearby and, thanks to a sunny day, take a walk in the park. The castle looks like a proper medieval fort, including a catapult “parked” in front of it as a reminder of those walls purpose. As we will learn from the Wikipedia page, this has been under siege many times, until it was abandoned in 1640.

Beautiful castle behind an even more beautiful catapult!

It took just a short half-hour drive to arrive to Annandale from the castle. As we left the car in the wide parking lot, we could admire the awesome restorations of the distillery buildings. It sits in a nice spot as well, close to a stream and surrounded by fields and woods, almost like a postcard! We checked-in at the visitor centre’s shop (where we got our very first whisky lanyard!) and while waiting for the tour to start, we had a coffee at the Maltings, their cafè.

Other than the basic tour there are other three options available, which is possible to enquire about from the website: one focused on the buildings restoration, one about the new owners journey and project, and a technical one about whisky production. Gianluigi enquired about the latter, but that week the person in charge was on annual leave, so he chose the basic tour (prices of the alternative ones are not specified on the website).

Our guide led us to the room where the tour started. While she was explaining the history of the distillery, which dates back to 1836, she gave us a first dram of a blended scotch whisky prototype (not on sale yet), a blend of North British grain whisky with their peated expression (Man O’Sword), diluted at 40%: despite the thin mouthfeel, not bad at all! The distillery was bought by the Walker family in 1893 as a source of peated single malt for their blends: their kiln used peat from local bogs, making it a pretty unique malt. Compared to other peated malts, it was also easier to transport it to Kilmarnock. The distillery was closed and dismantled in 1924, and prior to their acquisition by David Thomson and Teresa Church in the late 2000s, it was abandoned. When the renovation happened, all the equipment was new, making it another (almost) 200 years old “new distillery”, similarly to Bladnoch. In the middle of the courtyard we could admire the old stillhouse building’s base, with the two circular structures that used to host the stills.

The historical ties of these distillery don’t end here, as they decided to name their single malts after two very important characters tied with the local and Scottish history: while their unpeated whisky is named “Man O’Words” in honor of Robert Burns, their peated one is the “Man O’Sword”, after Robert The Bruce (and the peat doesn’t come from the area anymore, but it’s sourced by the Simpson maltsters).

As we moved to the production area, we spotted the similarities with other distilleries influenced by the late Dr Jim Swan (Lindores Abbey). In particular, they have a mashtun closed by a copper lid, and three stills: one wash still and two twins, slightly smaller, spirit stills.

All in one room: mashtun, washbacks and…

In the filling room, a poster of Doddie Wair, which filled their first peated cask. The dunnage warehouse is on two levels, and here is where we had a wee taste of their products (well, not Gianluigi as he was driving). We tasted their peated and unpeated Rascally Liquor (newmake spirit bottled at 63.5%), and their young Man O’Words and Man O’Sword from bourbon casks (unchillfiltered, natural color and cask strength). Back in the shop, we realised that all their bottling were £80-85 or over, depending on the cask type, so we opted for a tasting set of 6x5cl drams: peated and unpeated single malts in ex-bourbon, ex-sherry and STR casks, a good compromise (we still have to taste them however…). For what we could taste on that day (but also in another Kask Whisky tasting, when we had a dram of their sherry cask matured Man O’Words… and a real sherry cask, not a seasoned one) the whisky is very promising, and we are excited to see what is in their plans in the years to come!

As we left the distillery Teresa wasn’t aware of the next stop, and she was really clueless until we crossed the border with (cracks in the sky noise) England!!! The distillery for the next day was, of course, the Lakes distillery, but Gianluigi decided to spend the night in a town on the coast, Workington. We stayed in the very clean and tidy Hall Park Hotel, which has a bar as well, so before dinner we could watch the second half of the England-Ireland 6 Nations game from a comfy couch in our room with a pint! Sublime!

So another distillery in the sack, this time the beauty of Annandale really made the difference. We will definitely go back for another tour (hopefully the technical one), maybe in a few years when more expressions of this whisky will be available.

Annandale Distillery Tour and Tasting

Price: £20.00 pp (February 2022…But there was a discount at the time, we paid £10pp)

Tasting: Blended scotch (a blend of North British grain and their peated single malt, 40%), Rascal spirit (new make), Man O’Word & Man O’Sword (unpeated and peated, NC, NCF, CS)…and wee glass and laynard to take home

Target: everyone

Value for money: Good

Highlights: The beautiful site

Distillery Exclusive: Man O’Words and Man O’Sword single cask bottle your own vintage 2015 (CS, NCF, NC, ~£60 for a 375ml bottle)

Things we did not like: Feeling like broken records, but the bottling prices were a bit steep again

Link: https://annandaledistillery.com/

#11.1 Birthday in the Borderlands

Away to Galloway: Bladnoch Distillery (Day 1)

Another trip to discover distilleries in the Lowlands on a special occasion: Teresa’s birthday.

(Want to read the whole story? Go to Day 2 or Day 3)

There was one trip we aimed to do back in 2020, but because of you know what, we postponed it: Dumfries and Galloway. We heard this is a lovely region and, very important for us, home of two single malt distilleries, Annandale and Bladnoch.

This year, Gianluigi decided to catch up with this trip, and the perfect occasion was Teresa’s birthday, in March. He organized the trip as a surprise, so on that Friday morning when we ignited Cliff’s rowdy motor (thanks again Justine!), Teresa had no idea where we were going. As we left the city and didn’t take the Fifth of Forth bridge, Teresa recognized the landscape of the M8 towards Glasgow, so she narrowed down her guesses to two: Arran or Galloway. As we turned south towards Ayrshire, she got the correct guess. Smart lady! The distillery visit of the day was at Bladnoch. Their 1817 Tour is only available on Wednesdays and Fridays at 11.30, and because Gianluigi wanted to drive on the Ayrshire coast (which is a bit longer route), we had an early start.

Ayrshire itself is now home of at least three whisky distilleries in two production sites. One is the huge Girvan complex, owned by Willian Grant & Sons (the same company owning Glenfiddich, Balvenie and Kininvie, in Speyside) and including the Girvan grain distillery and Ailsa Bay (and for gin lovers, this is the place where Hendrick’s is produced). We briefly stopped to take a picture and snoop around the site.

The third one is a new small farm distillery called Lochlea, who released their first whisky in early 2022. They don’t have a visitor centre, but in some interviews on podcasts and on an article on the Whisky Magazine, they seemed to suggest they could welcome small groups of visitors, if contacted by time. That was very far from the reply they sent to Gianluigi’s email, which was polite but categorical in saying that, because it is a farm distillery, there is zero chance of welcoming guests (to be honest, that was not the case when a few weeks ago it was showed on social media that they actually had bloggers/podcasters, but hey ho!). Along the coast we also drove past Cairnryan, where the ferries to Northern Ireland leave, and the nice town of Stranraer, which we pictured much smaller.

Since the day was cloudy but not rainy (yet…), we decided to park the car in Wigtown and reach the distillery on foot. Wigtown is a very cute village and the Scottish capital of books. The place is in fact full of bookshops where you can find both new and second-hand books. In the afternoon, after the distillery visit and lunch, we took advantage of it to enlarge our collection of Ian Rankin novels and whisky books. The walk from the village main square to the distillery was about 20 minutes long on a very quiet road through a rural landscape which we’ll find very characteristic of the area.

As we crossed Bladnoch’s doors we realised how new the visitor centre, shop, restaurant are, and we checked in right away with our tour guide, James. He used to work as a chef, until he decided to join the Bladnoch team part time as a guide for their tour and, occasionally, to prepare meals for business visitors. When the tour started he told us how everything changed when the distillery was bought by Richard Prior in 2015, in particular the distilling plant (stills, washbacks, etc.). So, it is basically a new 200 years old distillery! We moved to the mill room, where he showed us how the shuttle box is used with a scale to check that the mill grinded husk, flour and grist at the correct ratio. We made a brief stop at the closed steel mash-tun, and moved to the room with 6 wooden (Douglas Fir) washbacks. James and the operator showed us how to measure the alcohol content of the wash, before and after fermentation (very similar to what we did in our timid attempts to brew beer at home, actually).

We moved to the still room, where four shiny copper stills (two wash stills and two spirit stills) were actually working! It was very nice to see the liquid been distilled through the wash still’s little window.

Once in the courtyard, we could admire the old distillery building including the malting floors, that are now used as offices. James also showed us the water source, just behind the old buildings. We spent a while inside the dunnage warehouse (where we couldn’t take pictures, except from outside the door). The new make spirit is maturing in a variety of casks: quarters, lot of sherry hogsheads, lot of wine barriques, bourbon, etc.

Birthday girl and the old malting floors.

We finally got to the tasting room, adjacent to the shop, where 5 drams were waiting for us: the new make spirit (nice surprise!), and four of their core range expressions (see summary below). Because most of the whisky they are currently bottling comes from the previous owners, at this point in their journey they want to showcase what they can do with the range of casks available. In our opinion all the four drams were all very cask-forward and enjoyable, although not mind-blowing. The two stand-out were the 14 y/o matured in ex-oloroso sherry casks, and the 19 y/o matured in ex-PX casks, of which James gave us a wee taste at the bar. A shame the price of both was a bit too steep. After the tour we stayed for a quick meal at their nice café: a plate of smoked duck and salmon, very good!

On the way back to Wigtown it started raining (sad trombone sound), so as we got into the village we sought refuge in another café (that was Gianluigi’s excuse to get another cake…). After leaving Wigtown (with a few more books in the trunk) and driving around a bit we directed ourselves towards our place for the night: the Waterfront Hotel in Portpatrick. This is a quite spectacular village on the Rhinns of Galloway peninsula, right in front of Ireland (which we couldn’t see because of the clouds). Our room was very ‘cosy’ (not to say tiny), but the staff was nice enough to give us one with a spectacular sea view. We had a delicious meal at the Connor’s restaurant, where we could also taste a couple of discontinued Bladnoch expressions: the 10 y/o (which Ralfy talked a lot about…and in fairness, it was one of the best we tried) and the 17 y/o.

Despite not bringing any bottle with us, we were very happy to have visited Bladnoch distillery. This experience was an example how the guide’s enthusiasm and knowledge can really “make the tour”, which otherwise could have been a very ‘standard’ one. So, to James, Sláinte!

Bladnoch 1817 Tour & Tasting

Price: £50.00 pp + £5 per transaction (March 2022)

Tasting: Bladnoch new make spirit (63.5%), 11y/o (46.7% , NCF, NC, ex-bourbon casks), Samsara (46.7%, NAS, NCF, NC, California wine and ex-bourbon casks), 14y/o (46.7% , NCF, NC, oloroso sherry casks), Alinta (peated, 47% , NAS, NCF, NC, 1^st fill ex-bourbon and 1^st fill ex-sherry casks)…and the glencairn to take home

Target: whisky enthusiasts and geeks

Value for money: a bit pricey but the in-depth tour made up for it

Highlights: the very enthusiastic guide James and the possibility of tasting extra drams

Distillery Exclusive: single cask 2007 vintage (55.9%, ex-port pipe, NC, NCF, £170) and 2002 vintage (48.4%, ex-sherry butt, NC, NCF, £400)

Link: https://bladnoch.com/

A trip to Crafty distillery

Tripping in the South of Scotland to Annandale (Day 2)

Away to Galloway: Bladnoch Distillery (Day 1)

Tripping in the South of Scotland to Annandale
(Day 2)