A craft distillery in the castle backyard
TL; DR: After visiting Campbeltown and Speyside, this time the Edinburgh Whisky Group travelled to the Highlands, main base Dornoch. No better way to kick off the trip with a visit to the local distillery!
During the 2020 and 2021 lockdowns, one thing that helped us maintain some sort of mental health was the great whisky community we found online, and in particular the Edinburgh Whisky Group founded by Justine on Facebook. A hard core of us kept in touch even after things eased off, and towards the end of 2021, when travels were allowed again and distilleries slowly reopened, we organised a trip all together, the Campbeltown Jolly! It was a success, so we repeated it about a year later with the Speycation.
For the third year, in 2023, after some thinking and discarding some options like a day trip in Pitlochry (Edradour still closed and too many of us had already visited Blair Athol) and a weekend on Islay (too complicated and probably expensive), the selected destination was the Highlands, with the brilliant name Highlander, who wants to dram forever? (our pal Charlie even made a logo to print on t-shirts). We were going to be based in Dornoch, and the trip combined distillery visits, whisky tastings, and a very fun whisky-themed quiz (Charlie was on top of this too!).
On our way to Dornoch we took the chance to visit two Speyisde distilleries (Ballindalloch and Dunphail, both definitely worth a visit!), but then we met up with the rest of the troops directly in Dornoch. For us one big issue was the lack of an open campsite in Dornoch or in the vicinity (we had to contact Visit Dornoch to ask where we could park our campervan without causing any trouble). Unfortunately, this is the issue when visiting the Highlands in the off season, as we’d already found earlier in the year when we went to Ardnamurchan in February. On the one hand, it’s really great to be able to appreciate incredible places and landscapes in peace and without the (sometimes) swarm of summer tourists, but on the other hand many services including campsites (despite the easier maintenance) are closed, making it challenging, at times.
After a fun evening with the others at the Eagle Hotel (also restaurant and pub), we woke up In the morning not that rested, because of a cold we’d caught a couple of days before the trip: campervan + cold, not a great combination. We had to catch up, however, because it was going to be a long day: not one, not two, but three distillery visits, yay! We fixed ourselves a nice breakfast in the campervan, and it was soon time for the first visit: the very local Dornoch Distillery, founded by the Thompson brothers Phil and Simon in 2016.
Yep, that’s the whole distillery!
At the moment the distillery is just behind the Dornoch Castle Hotel (at the time of writing also property of Phil and Simon, who took it over from their parents), and near the Historylinks museum. It is a shed that used to be a fire station, more or less same size as the Stirling distillery, but without the bar…Intriguing! So small, that we had to divide the group in two, we were in the second shift. When it was our time to go, Phil Thompson let us inside: everything is very carefully placed to give the operators enough space to move.
One of the six wee washbacks.
There are a 300kg stainless steel semi-lauter mashtun, six (!!) wooden fermenter vessels and two beautiful copper pot stills from Portugal (1,000-litre and 600-litre). There is also a 2,000-litre iStill, which is used as the wash container before distillation, or for gin production (here Phil stressed out how long it does take to clean it after gin to avoid any trace of gin going into the newmake spirit for whisky…A care that we wish other craft distillers would have as well!).
Not the classic stills.
At the moment they are using an ancient variety of barley called Marie Otter, which according to them provides less yield but more flavour compared to other varieties because of the higher protein content. Fermentation lasts seven days, with liquid yeast (it used to be brewer’s yeast), and they leave the top open to allow natural yeasts to play their part as well. The stills are electrically heated, although they use steam coils to pre-heat for a more efficient process. Their capacity is a little more than a hogshead (so north of 150-ish liters) per week, and when we were there, the abv at the end of the last distillation’s heart collection was 66.9%.
Probably one of the most geeky distillery visits so far, Phil’s knowledge of and passion for whisky making are impressive. His patience is impressive too, we asked so many questions! Overall, it was very interesting to see how their vision of traditional whisky making translated into practice. Also, we were very happy to have had the chance to visit the distillery shed before the big changes ahead. Indeed, the Thompson brothers have been recently granted permission to build a new distillery nearby, which will improve their capacity and include a visitor centre and a shop. This is a very exciting development, and given their flavour-forward thinking in each step of production, we can only imagine what they will be able to do with an improved capacity!
On the way to the shop.
Done with the visit, we moved to the shop, which is about 8 minutes walking north from the distillery. The shop is closed on weekends, and because we were leaving on the Sunday, if we wanted to get something from them now it was the time. We were lucky to find one of the last bottles of their recent Canadian Single Grain matured in in Sherry casks, for a Christmas gift, while for us we bought a “secret” Highland we’d tried before, very delicious in our opinion. The distillery it comes from would have been the next one on this trip.
Stay tuned to hear about it, and until next week, Slainte!
Bespoke Dornoch Distillery Visit
Link: https://www.thompsonbrosdistillers.com/
Dramming around 